Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
_August 4._--Sunday evening I walked from Bocken to Zurich to take
the train for my new post at Rome. Walked along the Albis hills above
the lake, ten miles. It was a delightful summer evening and the view
of mountains and lake seemed finer than ever before. I could not help
stopping many times to turn round and drink in the glorious scene,
possibly for the last time. It was the only time I ever shed tears on
leaving a scene of beauty. Besides I was leaving Switzerland, where I
had had fifteen happy years.
It was a dangerous time to go to Italy. The cholera was raging in
Spezia not less than in Marseilles and Toulon. Many Italians were
flying home from the scourge-stricken districts, and at the last
moment I learned that a quarantine had been established on the Italian
frontier. I hoped, however, to get through at a little village on Lake
Maggiore. To my surprise all the lake region was filled with guards
and I was soon arrested and cooped up with a thousand others at an old
sawmill by the lake.
For ten long days I walked alone up and down the upper floor of that
big sawmill, every hour expecting the cholera to break out among the
crowd of refugees down in the yard. Once a day a guard was sent to
conduct me down to the lake, where I could go in and swim. What a treat
that was for me! The guard stood on the shore with fixed bayonet,
watching that I did not swim out too far and get away. Mrs. Terry,
our good American friend, happened to be spending the summer in the
mountains near by. She heard of me and, like a good Samaritan, brought
me grapes and other delicacies. We could only stand and talk to each
other at a distance with the line of guards between us.
One morning I received a great big document, it looked like a college
diploma, saying that I had finished with the quarantine and could
proceed on my way.
In the early morning twilight I crossed beautiful Lake Maggiore in a
row boat, and like a bird let loose from its cage flew away to Rome.
Once on a time when my wife and I had been in Rome visiting, a lady
friend said to us just as we were about leaving: “Come first with me
to the fountain of Trevi, throw a penny into the water, and you will
return to Rome.” We went one beautiful moonlight night and tossed our
coins into the fountain. And now, sure enough, here I was again in the
Eternal City.
The officials of the consulate met me at the train. I went through
another terrible fumigation for the cholera, and was soon settled down
to live in Italy. The office was at once moved to Palazzo Mariani, 30
Via Venti Settembre, and there later we made our home, when it was safe
for my family to follow me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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