Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
Just as we were meditating on all this, a rustle of officers entering
the room is heard. We are placed in a line, single file, around the
walls of the apartment. “You will all kneel,” whispers an official, “as
his Holiness enters.” That moment the door opened, and Leo XIII, robed
in scarlet, entered the room. Everybody knelt. As he passes the door an
attendant draws the scarlet robe away, and he stands before us in white
and gold. He is a very old man, tall and thin, colorless in face, and
with silvery hair; there is a soft, sad smile on his lips; his clear,
steady eyes look out of a kindly face. He motions us all to rise, and
then slowly walks around the room, speaking a gracious word to each as
presented. An official walks with him carrying a list of our names.
The Pope’s half-gloved hand with the signet ring, is held forward for
us to kiss. His words are kindness itself. I never saw so saintly a
face before. I do not wonder that many in the room are weeping. They
are faithful Catholics and this moment is the event of their lives.
Some have traveled ten thousand miles to have that white hand placed on
their heads with a blessing. To them, the doors of paradise are this
moment visibly opening.
Everybody, Catholic or not, was affected. Shortly the kindly voice
comes to us, “And you are from America--America--good, far off
America,” he says in English, and then changes to French, and Italian.
He placed his hand on our heads and blessed us--and, believing or
disbelieving--a feeling of a holy presence moved us.
Shortly, a signal indicated that all should come to the center of the
room and kneel, and then a blessing was asked on the lands from which
we came. It was an impressive moment. Numbers kneel down and kiss the
gold cross on his embroidered slipper. An attendant enters, throws the
scarlet robe gently over his shoulders again. There are some kindly
smiles, a bow, and the Pope leaves the room. Our reception at the
Vatican was over.
* * * * *
Last evening visited Mrs. Greenough, wife of the celebrated sculptor.
They have lived here many years. She is an interesting woman, but
delicate as a lily. She talked much of Margaret Fuller, whom she had
known well for many years.
We find many self-expatriated Americans here, first-class snobs, mostly
a rich and terribly stuck-up gentry, hanging around the edge of Italian
society, watching opportunity to pick up an alliance with somebody with
some sort of a title. They are usually ashamed of their own countrymen,
even those of them who are here, and regard themselves entirely too
good to be Americans. It is a great pity in their minds that they
were born in the United States at all, where, likely as anyway, their
fathers made their fortunes selling hides and hominy.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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