Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
Mr. Tilton, the American painter, showed us a Venetian scene yesterday
of supreme loveliness, as most of his water scenes are. I never saw so
much delicious coloring as is always in his pictures of the Adriatic.
He sells mostly to the English, and at great prices. He showed me his
selling book, and I was astounded at what he got. It was pounds, where
others of our artist friends got dollars.
Went to Elihu Vedder’s studio. He received me very coolly at first,
because he thought I mispronounced his name; a very important matter.
Afterward, he took some pains to show me his work. It is certainly
characteristic, at least, and original, and nobody ever misses guessing
whose picture it is, if it should be from his brush.
_March 25._--Mr. Pierpont, the Secretary of Legation, is down with the
Roman fever. Strong and young and handsome as he was, constant late
hours and cold stone floors were too much for him. He may never recover.
His coming here was almost a sensation, and no one ever got into “good
society” in Rome so promptly. His handsome face, genial ways, good
family and fine talents have made him welcome everywhere. He is a son
of Attorney General Edwards Pierpont, of New York, once Minister to
England.
They have taken him to the German hospital up by the Capitol. What
makes his illness worse just now is that Mr. Astor, the Minister, has
sent in his resignation and will go home at once.
_April, 1884._--Went to the Island of Capri, only a couple of hours’
sail from the most beautiful bay in the world. This is the spot where
the Garden of Eden ought to have been.
Went to the Blue Grotto--wonderful! While floating about there in a
little boat, I thought of T. Buchanan Read’s lines:
Oh, happy ship to rise and dip
With the blue crystal at your lip
Just mere common existence ought to be a delight on Capri. The
combination of romantic scene, delicious air, blue sky, and almost
bluer sea, make it adorable.
One should need little to live on here, and I think the peasants indeed
have little aside from fruits and olive oil and wine. The young women
are strikingly beautiful.
Tiberius, when he built his palace up on top of this wonderful Isle of
the Sea, at least knew where to find the beautiful.
Ischia, even more beautiful, if possible, is close by, and we look over
and think of the terrible fate of its people only a few months ago.
In front of us is Naples, and, in sight, Vesuvius sullenly smokes away
as if to remind us of the eternal peril to all who stay among these
loveliest scenes of earth.
[Illustration: Naples.--_Page 266._]
We visited Pompeii, with its lifted mantle of ashes and cinder, that
have helped mankind to patch out history. I was impressed by the
extreme smallness of the Pompeiian houses. They look like little stone
kitchens. Everything in the excavated city seems in miniature. One
could think of a toy town built of stone, but supplied with everything
wonderful of art and luxury.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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