Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
Sometimes, though, a high American tariff, or bitter competition
elsewhere, make hard times for the common embroiderer whose wages are
never high. This very winter starvation stares many of the makers
of the beautiful things in the face, and a franc a day is the poor
pittance for twelve hours’ work. In better times even six francs are
earned. Then the great shippers, who furnish the linen and cotton and
silk to the peasants, and buy their embroideries from them, grow rich.
St. Gall is full of rich people, and it is full of scholars and culture.
Once a year the city itself, at its own expense, gives all the schools
a great festival and banquet on some high, green meadow. The sight of
from five to ten thousand happy boys and girls, all in pretty costumes,
bearing garlands and marching with banners and music, is not to be
forgotten.
* * * * *
The Sirocco or Foehn winds have been blowing for a week. Sunday, the
fine town of Meyringen was burned up, seven hotels and three hundred
houses. Nothing can save a town, once on fire, when this dry scorching
wind blast is in the mountains. It is no longer believed to be a
Sirocco, however, coming from the African desert, but a thing born of
the changeful temperatures in the mountains. It is a disagreeable freak
of nature, and half the people are ill when the Foehn wind blows. But
it brings the mountains out in added grandeur, everything seems nearer,
snow fields and lofty mountains forty miles away seem but five miles
off. Their distinctness then is marvelous, their beauty tenfold.
* * * * *
The scenery everywhere about St. Gall is purely Alpine. The
“Rosenberg,” a long, low mountain close by, is lined with magnificent
villas; nothing like it elsewhere in the world. Back of these villas,
far below them, but still in view, is the Lake of Constance. In front
of them, deep in the valley, sits the city, while beyond the valley
rise the glorious mountains. Nature and man have combined here to make
everything beautiful. The people are kind and hospitable, more so than
elsewhere in Switzerland. Evenings, we are often invited out to homes
where the characteristic St. Gall life is enjoyable.
Many a time we have climbed up the Apfelberg to the homes of Swiss
friends. Sylvester evenings, Christmas evenings, and the like, are
celebrated by family reunions, sparkling Christmas trees and great
dinners. Wine flows like water and the fatted Nüremberg goose takes the
place of the American turkey. A circle is formed around the Christmas
tree and all join hands and dance, father, mother, sister, brother,
friends and servants. As at the country houses in England, for once,
servants and master are on a footing. Everybody taking part gets his
present.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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