Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
Last week, five of us, including my son, started to climb up the
Saentis, the highest mountain in the vicinity. We began the ascent
late. Storm and darkness coming on, we lost our way. Half the night
was spent up there, creeping about on ice and stones. At last we stood
still and yelled all together. We were heard at the little weather hut
on top of the mountain at last, and the guides came down with dogs and
lanterns and helped us out of our dilemma. We were all well used up,
and as for myself, I received an injury that I may never get rid of. We
got home next day, and were off the mountains just in time to escape a
great snowfall that will bury the path till next year.
* * * * *
General Sherman’s daughter, Mrs. Thackera, paid us a long visit, as did
our old friends, the Edmundsons and Frankels.
Together we made excursions, notably to “_The Little Land of
Appenzell_,” described so beautifully by Bayard Taylor. We went to
the meeting of the people’s parliament--a strange spectacle. All the
peasants came, wearing swords as signs of their right to vote. It was a
mass meeting in the open air. Ten to fifteen thousand voters stood and
voted on the laws of the canton. These laws, proposed by the outgoing
officials, had been printed and distributed in the farmhouses weeks
before. These officials in old-time garb now stood before the people
on a raised platform. There was no discussion at the mass meeting. “Do
you want this law--yes or no?” said the President, and that was all
there was to it. In two hours’ time new laws had been adopted. The
canton officials went through the ceremony of transferring their state
mantles to the shoulders of the newly elected officers. Then the vast
crowd were asked to bare their heads, hold up their right hands and
swear new allegiance to the Republic. When that packed mass of humanity
turned their faces to the sun, and held up ten thousand brown hands, it
was the most impressive scene one can imagine. They meant it. The vast
mountains stood around and looked on in silence. Far below we could see
the broad lake shining like a sea of silver. When the oath was over,
the bands played, and the peasant lawmakers returned in silence to
their homes. There had not been a single disturbance, not a rude, loud
word.
For hundreds of years this simple people of Appenzell have met and made
their laws in this way, and, as a historian said of the old Republic of
St. Gall, “They guard their state from disorder and revolution by the
simple grace of homely virtues.”
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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