Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
_September 25, 1876._--We are in the middle of the Atlantic. On the
16th, we left London on the Anglia. Mr. Benjamin, the marine artist
(afterward Minister to Persia), is among the passengers. He made sea
sketches, all the way. Kate Sherwood Bonner, a Southern literary woman,
who put staid old Boston in an uproar last year by stirring up some
of the effete clubs of culture that did not cultivate, is also on
board. She is bright and beautiful, with her golden hair, and has the
fairest white hands imaginable. A strange incident made us acquainted.
She mentioned her home in Holly Springs, Mississippi, and in a moment
I knew that once in the war times I was a sick soldier in that very
house. I saw death scenes in its elegant chambers, in her own boudoir,
of friend and foe, too horrible to relate.
The weather is perfect. We sail to Canada. There is not a sick soul
on board. Everybody knows everybody, and there are concerts and
recitations and fun in the cabin every night. All the day we play games
on the deck. Nobody wants this journey to come to an end.
We saw an iceberg, and we saw a whale (yesterday). We offered the
Captain $20 to stop the ship, put us down in life boats and let us row
close to the iceberg. He refused. “Company at London would raise a
row,” he said. We were so close, however, we could see beautiful little
inlets and bays worn in among the high walls of the crystal island,
against which the sea was dashing. The ice was several hundred feet
high, clear blue-green, and the sight, with the evening sun striking
it, was altogether novel and beautiful. We stood on the deck and
watched it for twenty miles. When we were near to it, the Captain said
there was a terrible drop in the temperature of the sea water. We were
sixteen days reaching New York.
_October 4._--Visiting the Centennial. By mere accident, found
telegrams telling us of the sudden death of my wife’s father, while
we have been having so long a voyage at sea. He was buried the day we
reached New York. Owing to the length of the voyage they had given up
finding us. William Gilmour was an educated Scotchman and a noble man,
from near Burns’ home, where his brother John had been one of Scotia’s
young bards.
In October, we visited home friends in the West, and returning East,
staid a time in Washington, visiting at the home of General Sherman and
elsewhere.
Horatio King, then having weekly “Literary Evenings” at his home,
invited us often. These evenings did more to enliven a taste in
Washington society for books and high culture than any other one
thing in that whirl of politics and pretentiousness. King had been
President Buchanan’s Postmaster-General. He knew almost everybody in
art and literature in the country, and the people one met at his home
were always interesting. I regarded it a great pleasure to go to his
“Evenings.” He was growing older, but his intellect was bright as in
youth, and his young wife attracted people of taste into their charming
circle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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