Twenty Years of Balkan TangleDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Twenty Years of Balkan Tangle
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Balkan Peninsula -- History; Eastern question (Balkan)
I returned therefore to the Patriarchia, recovered my passport from
the Pasha and was given by him a mounted gendarme to ride with me as
far as Berani. This fellow, a cheery Moslem Bosniak, loaded his
rifle and kept a sharp look out. And a second gendarme accompanied
us till we were through the pass. And both vowed that a few months
ago they wouldn't have come with less than thirty men; Albanians
behind every rock and piff paff, a bullet in your living heart
before you knew where you were. They wondered much that I had made
the journey with only one old zaptieh. Still more, that I had been
allowed to come at all.
Berani received me with enthusiasm. Nor had my cheery Turkish
gendarme an idea that my guide was a Montenegrin till he took off
his fez at the frontier. Then the gendarme slapped his thigh, roared
with laughter and treated it as a good joke.
The said guide's relief on being once more in his own territory
showed clearly what the risks had been for him.
Andrijevitza gave us quite an ovation. Countless questions as to the
number and position of the Turkish Army were poured out. My guide
had fulfilled his task. I was reckoned a hero. What hold the Voyvoda
had over the Kaimmakam of Berani I never ascertained. But it was the
Voyvoda's letter to the Kaimmakam that got me over the border. All
that I gathered was that I had been made use of for political
purposes and successfully come through what every one considered a
very dangerous enterprise. The same people who had urged me to go
now addressed me as "one that could look death in the eyes."
Had I met death, what explanation would they have offered to the
questions that must have cropped up over the death of a British
subject?
A number of schoolmasters had gathered in Andrijevitza for their
holidays. Many of them were educated in Belgrade and these were
especially of the opinion that the murder of Alexander and Draga was
a splendid thing for Serbia, and when I said it might bring
misfortune were not at all pleased. Even persons who at first said
the murder was horrible now said since it was done it was well done.
The Voyvoda and the Kapetan told me that every country in Europe had
accepted King Petar except England and that the Serb Minister had
been sent from London. "England," they declared, "has often been our
enemy." They hoped that good, however, would result from my journey.
The whole of my return to Cetinje was a sort of triumphal progress.
Jovo Martinovitch, the Serdar at Kolashin, was delighted to hear of
the Ipek expedition, but admitted frankly that he had not dared
propose it himself. Voyvoda Lakitch, he said, was well informed and
no doubt knew the moment at which it could be safely attempted.
Every place I passed through was of opinion something was about to
happen soon. Next year the route to Gusinje would be open. At
Podgoritza I was received by the Governor Spiro Popovitch and taken
for a drive round the town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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