Twenty Years of Balkan TangleDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Twenty Years of Balkan Tangle
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Balkan Peninsula -- History; Eastern question (Balkan)
Then came the crux. The Prince was terrified lest I should write to
The Times and shatter his golden dreams of wealthy tourists. The
whole Montenegrin Government trembled before the possibility of such
a catastrophe. I promised cheerfully not to write to any paper at
all. |Nor till now have I mentioned the affairs.
So the matter was settled, to the obvious relief of poor old Nikita,
who was most grateful and seemed much surprised that I required no
vengeance.
I started again, this time for Nikshitch and the Durmitor, with the
intention of going into Turkish territory if possible.
At Rijeka I was taken to the small-arms factory on the river, the
primitive machinery being worked by water power. Here were men busy
fitting new stocks to old rifles, Russian ones. I was told that one
was being prepared for every man in Bosnia and the Herzegovina. When
all were ready they would be smuggled in. I was taken aback at this,
but found when playing the phonograph in the evening to a large
party, that the notion of a not distant war with Austria accompanied
by a great Balkan rising was generally accepted. Still more was I
surprised to hear talk against the Prince. He and his sons were
accused of taking all the best land and doing nothing with it. And
the question of the tobacco regie raged. Podgoritza I found greatly
changed. The outer world had rushed in on it. The tobacco factory
dominated the town. "God willing, we shall burn it down!" said the
populace cheerfully. True, it employed many hands, but they
complained the pay was low, though they admitted that the girls had
never earned anything before. In truth, regular work was a new thing
in Montenegro. The end of the days of indefinite coffee- and
rakia-drinking and recounting of past battles was now approaching.
The middle ages were leaping at one bound into the twentieth
century, and the Montenegrin was angry and puzzled.
The Italians had undertaken to construct a railway, quays, and
harbour works, and offered fair wages for workmen. The Montenegrins
demanded fantastic payment and imagined that by standing out they
would get it. To their astonishment the Italians imported gangs of
far better workmen and finished the work. Then the Montenegrins
cursed the Italians and hated them bitterly. Even Montenegrin
officers openly boasted that they did not know the price of the
regie tobacco as they smoked only contraband, and feeling ran so
high that the Italian Monopol buildings at Antivari were attacked
and damaged.
At Podgoritza I met again the Albanian coachman Shan, who had served
me very faithfully on my previous visits. He took me to the house of
his family. A striking contrast to the Montenegrin houses, it was
spick and span and even pretty, for the Albanian has artistic
instincts, whereas the Montenegrin has none. Left to himself, his
taste is deplorable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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