Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
There is a constant tendency in all times and among all
English-speaking folk to shorten names and titles for colloquial
purposes; and soon the falling-band became the fall. In the _Wits’
Recreation_ are two epigrams which show the thought of the times:—
“WHY WOMEN WEARE A FALL
“A Question ’tis why Women wear a fall?
And truth it is to Pride they’re given all.
And _Pride_, the proverb says, _will have a fall_.”
“ON A LITTLE DIMINUTIVE BAND
“What is the reason of God-dam-me’s band,
Inch deep? and that his fashion doth not alter,
God-dam-me saves a labor, understand
In pulling it off, where he puts on the Halter.”
“God-dam-me” was one of the pleasant epithets which, by scores, were
applied to the Puritans.
Reverend Jonathan Edwards. Reverend Jonathan Edwards.
The bands worn by the learned professions, two strips of lawn with
squared ends, were at first the elongated ends of the shirt collar of
Jonathan Edwards. We have them still, to remind us of old fashions; and
we have another word and thing, band-box, which must have been a stern
necessity in those days of starch, and ruff, and band.
It was by no means a convention of dress that “God-dam-me” should wear
a small band. Neither Cromwell nor his followers clung long to plain
bands; nor did they all assume them. It would be wholly impossible to
generalize or to determine the standing of individuals, either in
politics or religion, by their neckwear. I have before me a little
group of prints of men of Cromwell’s day, gathered for extra
illustration of a history of Cromwell’s time. Let us glance at their
bands.
First comes Cromwell himself from the Cooper portrait at Cambridge;
this portrait has a plain linen turnover collar, or band, but two to
three inches wide. Then his father is shown in a very broad, square,
plain linen collar extending in front expanse from shoulder seam to
shoulder seam. Sir Harry Vane and Hampden, both Puritans, have narrow
collars like Cromwell’s; Pym, an equally precise sectarian, has a
broader one like the father’s, but apparently of some solid and rich
embroidery like cut-work. Edward Hyde, the Earl of Clarendon, in narrow
band, Lucius Cary, Lord Falkland, in band and band-strings, were
members of the Long Parliament, but passed in time to the Royal Camp.
Other portraits of both noblemen are in richly laced bands. The Earl of
Bristol, who was in the same standing, has the widest of lace, Vandyked
collars. John Selden wears the plain band; but here is Strafford, the
very impersonation of all that was hated by Puritans, and yet he wears
the simplest of puritanical bands. William Lenthal, Speaker of the
House of Commons, is in a beautiful Cavalier collar with straight lace
edges. There are a score more, equally indifferent to rule.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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