Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
We seldom have in manuscript or print, in America, titles or names
given to caps or hats, but one occasionally seen is the term
“montero-cap,” spelled also mountero, montiro, montearo; and Washington
Irving tells of “the cedar bird with a little mon-teiro-cap of
feathers.” Montero-caps were frequently recommended to emigrants, and
useful dress they were, being a horseman’s or huntsman’s cap with a
simple round crown, and a flap which went around the sides and back of
the cap and which could be worn turned up or brought down over the back
of the neck, the ears and temples, thus making a most protecting
head-covering. They were, in general, dark colored, of substantial
woollen stuff, but Sterne writes in Tristram Shandy of a montero-cap
which he describes as of superfine Spanish cloth, dyed scarlet in the
grain, mounted all round with fur, except four inches in front, which
was faced with light blue lightly embroidered. It is a montero-cap
which is seen on the head of Bamfylde Moore Carew, the “King of the
Mumpers,” a most genial English rogue, sneak-thief, and cheat of the
eighteenth century, who spent some of his ill-filled years in the
American colonies, whither he was brought after being trepanned, and
where he had to bear the ignominy of wearing an iron collar welded
around his neck.
A montero-cap seems to have been the favorite dress of rogues. In
Head’s _English Rogue_ we read, “Beware of him that rides in a
montero-cap and of him that whispers oft.” The picaro Guzman wore one;
and as montero is the Spanish word for huntsman, Head may have obtained
the word from that special scamp, Guzman, whose life was published in
1633. It is a very ancient name, being given in Cotgrave as a hood, or
as the horseman’s helmet. It is worn still by Arctic travellers and
Alpine climbers. Sets of knitted montero-caps were presented by the
Empress Eugenie to the Arctic expedition of 1875, and the Jackies
dubbed them “Eugenie Wigs.”
Another and widely different class of men wore likewise the
montero-cap, the English and American Quakers. Thomas Ellwood, in the
early days of his Quaker belief, suffered much for his hat, both from
his fellow Quakers and his father, a Church of England man. The Quakers
thought his “large Mountier cap of black velvet, the skirt of which
being turned up in Folds looked somewhat above the common Garb of a
Quaker.” A young priest at another time snatched this montero-cap off
because he wore it in the presence of magistrates, and then Ellwood’s
father fell upon it in this wise:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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