Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
e are told by the great Viollet le Duc that the faces of
fifteenth-century women were of a uniform type. Certainly a uniform
head-dress tends to establish a seeming resemblance of the wearers; the
strange, steeple head-dress of that century might well have that
effect; and the “French hood” worn so many years by English, French,
and American women has somewhat the same effect on women’s
countenances; it gives a uniformity of severity. It is difficult for a
face to be pretty and gay under this gloomy hood. This French hood is
plainly a development of the head-rail, which was simply an unshaped
oblong strip of linen or stuff thrown over the head, and with the ends
twisted lightly round the neck or tied loosely under the chin with
whatever grace or elegance the individual wearer possessed.
Varying slightly from reign to reign, yet never greatly changed, this
sombre plain French hood was worn literally for centuries. It was
deemed so grave and dignified a head-covering that, in the reign of
Edward III, women of ill carriage were forbidden the wearing of it.
Gulielma Penn. Gulielma Penn.
In the year 1472 “Raye Hoods,” that is, striped hoods, were enjoined in
several English towns as the distinctive wear of women of ill
character. And in France this black hood was under restriction; only
ladies of the French court were permitted to wear velvet hoods, and
only women of station and dignity, black hoods.
This black hood was dignified in allegorical literature as “the
venerable hood,” and was ever chosen by limners to cover the head of
any woman of age or dignity who was to be depicted.
In the _Ladies’ Dictionary_ a hood is defined thus: “A Dutch attire
covering the head, face and all the body.” And the long cloak with this
draped hood, which must have been much like the Shaker cloak of to-day,
seems to have been deemed a Dutch garment. It was warm and comfortable
enough to be adopted readily by the English Pilgrims in Holland. It had
come to England, however, in an earlier century. Of Ellinor Rummin, the
alewife, Skelton wrote about the year 1500:—
“A Hake of Lincoln greene
It had been hers I weene
More than fortye yeare
And soe it doth appeare
And the green bare threds
Looked like sere wedes
Withered like hay
The wool worn awaye
And yet I dare saye
She thinketh herself gaye
Upon a holy day.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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