Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
In the list of the “wedding apparell” of Madam Phillips, of Boston, are
velvet hoods, love-hoods, and “sneal hoods”; hoods of Persian, of
lustring, of gauze; frequently scarlet hoods are named. In 1712 Richard
Hall sent, from Barbadoes to Boston, a trunk of his deceased wife’s
finery to be sold, among which was “one black Flowered Gauze Hoode,”
and he added rather spitefully that he “could send better but it would
be too rich for Boston.” He was a grandson of Madam Symonds of Ipswich.
Furbelowed gauze hoods were then owned by Boston women, and must have
been pretty things. Their delicacy has kept them from being preserved
as have been velvet and Persian hoods.
For the years 1673 to 1721 we have a personal record of domestic life
in Boston, a diary which is the sole storehouse to which we can turn
for intimate knowledge of daily deeds in that little town. A scant
record it is, as to wearing apparel; for the diary-writer, Samuel
Sewall, sometime business man, friend, neighbor, councillor, judge,—and
always Puritan,—had not a regard of dress as had his English
contemporary, the gay Samuel Pepys, or even that sober English
gentleman, John Evelyn. In Pepys’s pages we have frequent and
light-giving entries as to dress, interested and interesting entries.
In Judge Sewall’s diary, any references to dress are wholly accidental
and not related as matters of any moment, save one important exception,
his attitude toward wigs and wig-wearing. I could wish Sewall had had a
keener eye for dress, for he wrote in strong, well-ordered English; and
when he was deeply moved he wrote with much color in his pen. The most
spirited episodes in the book are the judge’s remarkable and varied
courtships after he was left a widower at the age of sixty-five, and
again when sixty-eight. While thus courting he makes almost his sole
reference to women’s dress,—that Madam Mico when he called came to him
in a splendid dress, and that Madam Winthrop’s dress, _after she had
refused him_, was “not so clean as sometime it had been.” But an
article of his own dress, nevertheless, formed an important factor in
his unsuccessful courtship of Madam Winthrop—his hood. When all the
other widowers of the community, dignified magistrates, parsons, and
men of professions, all bourgeoned out in stately full-bottomed wigs,
what woman would want to have a lover who came a-courting in a hood? A
detachable hood with a cloak, I doubt not he wore, like the one owned
by Judge Curwen, his associate in that terrible tale of Salem’s
bigotry, cruelty, and credulity, the Witchcraft Trial. I cannot fancy
Judge Sewall in a scarlet cloak and hood—a sad-colored one seems more
in keeping with his temperament.
Perhaps our old friend, the judge, wore his hood under his hat, as did
the sober citizens in Piers Plowman; and as did judges in England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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