Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
At Amsterdam may be seen the portrait of Princess Mary painted with her
cousin, William of Orange, who became her child-husband. She had the
happiest life of any of the five—if she ever could be happy after her
father’s tragic death. In this later portrait she is a little older and
sadder and stiffer. Her waist is more pinched, her shoulders narrower,
her face more demure. His likeness is here given. The only marked
difference in the dress of these children from the dress of the Gibbes
children is in the lace; the royal family wear laces with deeply
pointed edges, the point known as a Vandyke. The American children wear
straight-edged laces, as was the general manner of laces of that day.
An old print of the Duke of York when about seven years old is given
(here). He carries in his hand a quaint racket.
The costume worn by these children is like that of plebeian English
children of the same date. A manuscript drawing of a child of the
people in the reign of Charles I shows a precisely similar dress, save
that the child is in leading-strings held by the mother; and in the
belt to which the leading-strings are attached is thrust a “muckinder”
or handkerchief.
These leading-strings are seldom used now, but they were for centuries
a factor in a child’s progress. They were a favorite gift to children;
and might be a simple flat strip of strong stuff, or might be richly
worked like the leading-strings which Mary, Queen of Scots embroidered
for her little baby, James. These are three bands of Spanish pink satin
ribbon, each about four or five feet long and over an inch wide. The
three are sewed with minute over-and-over stitches into a flat band
about four inches wide, and are embroidered with initials, emblems of
the crown, a verse of a psalm, and a charming flower and grape design.
The gold has tarnished into brown, and the flower colors are fled; but
it is still a beautiful piece of work, speaking with no uncertain voice
of a tender, loving mother and a womanly queen. There were
crewel-worked leading-strings in America. One is prettily lined with
strips of handsome brocade that had been the mother’s wedding
petticoat; it is not an ill rival of the princely leading-strings.
Another little English girl, who was not a princess, but who lived in
the years when ran and played our little American children, was Miss
Campion, who “minded her horn-book”—minded it so well that she has been
duly honored as the only English child ever painted with horn-book in
hand. Her petticoat and stomacher, her apron, and cap and hanging
sleeves and square-toed shoes are just like Margaret Gibbes’s—bought in
the same London shops, very likely.
Not only did all these little English and American children dress
alike, but so did French children, and so did Spanish children—only
little Spanish girls had to wear hoops. Hoops were invented in Spain;
and proud was the Spanish queen of them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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