Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
The use of the word hanging sleeves in common speech and in literature
is most interesting. It had a figurative meaning; it symbolized youth
and innocence. This meaning was acquired, of course, from the wear for
centuries of hanging sleeves by little children, both boys and girls.
It had a second, a derivative signification, being constantly employed
as a figure of speech to indicate second childhood; it was used with a
wistful tender meaning as an emblem of the helplessness of feeble old
age. The following example shows such an employment of the term.
In 1720, Judge Samuel Sewall, of Boston, then about seventy-five years
of age, wrote to another old gentleman, whose widowed sister he desired
to marry, in these words:—
“I remember when I was going from school at Newbury to have sometime
met your sisters Martha and Mary in Hanging Sleeves, coming home from
their school in Chandlers Lane, and have had the pleasure of speaking
to them. And I could find it in my heart now to speak to Mrs. Martha
again, now I myself am reduced to Hanging Sleeves.”
William Byrd, of Westover, in Virginia, in one of his engaging and
sprightly letters written in 1732, pictures the time of the patriarchs
when “a man was reckoned at Years of Discretion at 100; Boys went into
Breeches at about 40; Girles continued in Hanging Sleeves till 50, and
plaid with their Babys till Threescore.”
When Benjamin Franklin was seven years old, he wrote a poem which was
sent to his uncle, a bright old Quaker. This uncle responded in clever
lines which begin thus:—
“’Tis time for me to throw aside my pen
When Hanging-Sleeves read, write and rhyme like men.
This forward Spring foretells a plenteous crop
For if the bud bear grain, what will the top?”
A curious use of the long hanging sleeve was as a pocket; that is, it
would seem curious to us were it not for our acquaintance with the
capacity of the sleeves of our unwelcome friend, Ah Sing. The pocketing
sleeve of the time of Henry III still exists in the heraldic charge
known as the manche, borne by the Hastings and Norton family. This is
also called maunch, émanche, and mancheron. The word “manchette,” an
ornamented cuff, retains the meaning of the word, as does manacle; all
are from _manus_.
Hanging sleeves had a time of short popularity for grown folk while
Anne Boleyn was queen of England; for the little finger of her left
hand had a double tip, and the long, graceful sleeves effectually
concealed the deformity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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