Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
o-day, when every man, save a football player or some eccentric
reformer or religious fanatic, displays in youth a close-cropped head,
and when even hoary age is seldom graced with flowing, silvery locks,
when women’s hair is dressed in simplicity, we can scarcely realize the
important and formal part the hair played in the dress of the
eighteenth century.
In the great eagerness shown from earliest colonial days to acquire and
reproduce in the New World every change of mode in the Old, to purchase
rich dress, and to assume novel dress, no article was sought for more
speedily and more anxiously than the wig. It has proved an interesting
study to compare the introduction of wigs in England with the wear of
the same form of head-gear in America. Wigs were not in general use in
England when Plymouth and Boston were settled; though in Elizabeth’s
day a “peryuke” had been bought for the court fool. They were not in
universal wear till the close of the seventeenth century.
The “Wig Mania” arose in France in the reign of Louis XV. In 1656 the
king had forty court perruquiers, who were termed and deemed artists,
and had their academy. The wigs they produced were superb. It is told
that one cost £;200, a sum equal in purchasing power to-day to $5000.
The French statesman and financier, Colbert, aghast at the vast sums
spent for foreign hair, endeavored to introduce a sort of cap to
supplant the wig, but fashions are not made that way.
Governor and Reverend Gurdon Saltonstall. Governor and Reverend Gurdon
Saltonstall.
For information of English manners and customs in that day, I turn (and
never in vain) to those fascinating volumes, the _Verney Memoirs_. From
them I learn this of early wig-wearing by Englishmen; that Sir Ralph
Verney, though in straitened circumstances during his enforced
residence abroad, felt himself compelled to follow the French mode,
which at that period, 1646, had not reached England. That exemplary
gentleman paid twelve livres for a wig, when he was sadly short of
money for household necessaries. It was an elaborate wig, curled in
great rings, with two locks tied with black ribbon, and made without
any parting at the back. This wig was powdered.
Sir Ralph wrote to his wife that a good hair-powder was very difficult
to get and costly, even in France. It was an appreciable addition to
the weight of the wig and to the expense, large quantities being used,
sometimes as much as two pounds at a time. It added not only to the
expense, but to the discomfort, inconvenience, and untidiness of
wig-wearing.
Pomatum made of fat, and that sometimes rancid, was used to make the
powder stick; and noxious substances were introduced into the powder,
as a certain kind is mentioned which must not be used alone, for it
would produce headache.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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