Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
There is a most ungallant old riddle, “Why is a wife like a patten?”
The answer reads, “Because both are clogs.” A very courteous bishop was
once asked this uncivil query, and he answered without a moment’s
hesitation, “Because both elevate the soul (sole).” Pattens may be
clogs, yet there is a difference. After much consultation of various
authorities, and much discussion in the columns of various querying
journals, I make this decision and definition. Pattens are thick,
wooden soles roughly shaped in the outline of the human foot (in the
shoemaker’s notion of that member), mounted on a round or oval ring of
iron, fixed by two or three pins to the sole, in such a way that when
the patten is worn the sole of the wearer’s foot is about two inches
above the ground. A heel-piece with buckles and straps, strings or
buttons and leather loops, and a strap over the toe, retain the patten
in place upon the foot when the wearer trips along. (See here.) Clogs
serve the same purpose, but are simply wooden soles tipped and shod
with iron. These also have heel-pieces and straps of various
materials—from the heavy serviceable leather shown in the clogs here
and here to the fine brocade clogs made and worn by two brides and
pictured here. Dainty brass tips and colored morocco straps made a
really refined pair of clogs. Poplar wood was deemed the best wood for
pattens and clogs. Sometimes the wooden sole was thin, and was cut at
the line under the instep in two pieces and hinged. These hinges were
held to facilitate walking. Children also wore clogs. (See here.)
Clogs, as worn by English and American folk, did not raise the wearer
as high above the mud and mire as did pattens, but I have seen Turkish
clogs that were ten inches high. Chopines were worn by Englishwomen to
make them look taller. Three are shown here. Lady Falkland was short
and stout, and wore them for years to increase her apparent height; so
she states in her memoirs.
It is a curious philological study that, while the words “clogs” and
“pattens” for a time were constantly heard, the third name which has
survived till to-day is the oldest of all—“galoshes.” Under the many
spellings, galoe-shoes, goloshes, gallage, galoche, and gallosh, it has
come down to us from the Middle Ages. It is spelt galoches in _Piers
Plowman_. In a _Compotus_—or household account of the Countess of Derby
in 1388 are entries of botews (boots), souters (slippers), and “one
pair of galoches, 14 d.” Clogs, or galoches, were known in the days of
the Saxons, when they were termed “wife’s shoes.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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