Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
ne of the first sumptuary laws in New England declared that men of mean
estate should not walk abroad in immoderate great boots. It was a
natural prohibition where all extravagance in dress was reprehended and
restrained. The “great boots” which had been so vast in the reign of
James I seemed to be spreading still wider in the reign of Charles. I
have an old “Discourse” on leather dated 1629, which states fully the
condition of things. Its various headings read, “The general Use of
Leather;” “The general Abuse thereof;” “The good which may arise from
the Reformation;” “The several Statutes made in that behalf by our
ancient Kings;” and lastly a “Petition to the High Court of
Parliament.” It is all most informing; for instance, in the trades that
might want work were it not for leather are named not only “shoemakers,
cordwainers, curriers, etc.,” but many now obsolete. The list reads:—
“Book binders.
Budget makers.
Saddlers.
Trunk makers.
Upholsterers.
Belt makers.
Case makers.
Box makers.
Wool-card makers.
Cabinet makers.
Shuttle makers.
Bottle and Jack makers.
Hawks-hood makers.
Gridlers.
Scabbard-makers.
Glovers.”
Unwillingly the author added “those _upstart trades_—Coach Makers, and
Harness Makers for Coach Horses.” It was really feared, by this
sensible gentleman-writer—and many others—that if many carriages and
coaches were used, shoemakers would suffer because so few shoes would
be worn out.
From the statutes which are rehearsed we learn that the footwear of the
day was “boots, shoes, buskins, startups, slippers, or pantofles.”
Stubbes said:—
“They have korked shooes puisnets pantoffles, some of black velvet,
some of white some of green, some of yellow, some of Spanish leather,
some of English leather stitched with Silke and embroidered with Gold
&; Silver all over the foot.”
A very interesting book has been published by the British Cordwainers’
Guild, giving a succession of fine illustrations of the footwear of
different times and nations. Among them are some handsome English
slippers, shoes, jack-boots, etc. We have also in our museums,
historical collections, and private families many fine examples; but
the difficulty is in the assigning of correct dates. Family tradition
is absolutely wide of the truth—its fabulous dates are often a century
away from the proper year.
The Copley Family Picture. The Copley Family Picture.
Wedding Slippers and Brocade. 1712. Wedding Slippers and Brocade. 1712.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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