Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Another Plymouth portrait of very rich dress, that of Elizabeth Paddy,
Mrs. John Wensley, faces this page. The dress in this is a golden-brown
brocade under-petticoat and satin overdress. The stiff, busked stays
are equal to Queen Elizabeth’s. Revers at the edge of overdress and on
the virago sleeves are now of flame color, a Spanish pink, but were
originally scarlet, I am sure. The narrow stomacher is a beaded galloon
with bright spangles and bugles. On the hair there shows above the ears
a curious ornament which resembles a band of this galloon. There are
traces of a similar ornament in Madam Rawson’s portrait (here); and
Madam Stoddard’s (here) has some ornament over the ears. This may have
been a modification of a contemporary Dutch head-jewel. The pattern of
the lace of Elizabeth Paddy’s whisk is most distinct; it was a good
costly Flemish parchment lace like Mrs. Padishal’s. She carries a fan,
and wears rings, a pearl necklace, and ear-rings. I may say here that I
have never seen other jewels than these,—a few rings, and necklace and
ear-rings of pearl. Other necklaces seem never to have been worn.
Elizabeth Paddy Wensley. Elizabeth Paddy Wensley.
We cannot always trust that all the jewels seen in these portraits were
real, or that the sitter owned as many as represented. A bill is in
existence where a painter charged ten shillings extra for bestowing a
gold and pearl necklace upon his complaisant subject. In this case,
however, the extra charge was to pay for the gold paint or gold-leaf
used for gilding the painted necklace. In the amusing letters of Lady
Sussex to Lord Verney are many relating to her portrait by Van Dyck.
She consented to the painting very unwillingly, saying, “it is money
ill bestowed.” She writes:—
“Put Sr Vandyke in remembrance to do my pictuer well. I have seen
sables with the clasp of them set with diamonds—if those I am pictured
in were done so, I think it would look very well in the pictuer. If Sr
Vandyke thinks it would do well I pray desier him to do all the clawes
so. I do not mene the end of the tales but only the end of the other
peces, they call them clawes I think.”
This gives a glimpse of a richness of detail in dress even beyond our
own day, and one which I commend to some New York dame of vast wealth,
to have the claws of her sables set with diamonds. She writes later in
two letters of some weeks’ difference in date:—
“I am glad you have prefalede with Sr Vandyke to make my pictuer
leaner, for truly it was too fat. If he made it farer it will bee to my
credit. I am glad you have made Sr Vandyke mind my dress.” ...
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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