Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
In her New Year’s gifts were also, “strayt-bodyed gowns, trayn-gowns,
waist-robes, night rayls, shoulder cloaks, inner sleeves, round
kirtles.” She also had nightgowns and jackets, and underwear, hose, and
various forms of foot-gear. Many of these garments never came to
America. Some came under new names. Many quickly disappeared from
wardrobes. I never read in early American inventories of robes, either
French robes or plain robes. Round gowns, loose gowns, petticoats,
cloaks, safeguards, lap mantles, sleeves, nightgowns, nightrails, and
night-jackets continued in wear.
I have never found the word forepart in this distinctive signification
nor the word kirtle; though our modern writers of historical novels are
most liberal of kirtles to their heroines. It is a pretty, quaint name,
and ought to have lingered with us; but “what a deformed thief this
Fashion is”—it will not leave with us garment or name that we like
simply because it pleases us.
Doublets were worn by women.
“The Women also have doublets and Jerkins as men have, buttoned up the
brest, and made with Wings, Welts and Pinions on shoulder points as
men’s apparell is for all the world, &; though this be a kind of attire
appropriate only to Man yet they blush not to wear it.”
Anne Hibbins, the _witch_, had a black satin doublet among other
substantial attire.
A fellow-barrister of Governor John Winthrop, Sergeant Erasmus Earle, a
most uxorious husband, was writing love-letters to his wife Frances,
who lived out of London, at the same time that Winthrop was writing to
Margaret Winthrop. Earle was much concerned over a certain doublet he
had ordered for his wife. He had bought the blue bayes for this garment
in two pieces, and he could not decide whether the shorter piece should
go into the sleeve or the body, whether it should have skirts or not.
If it did not, then he had bought too much silver lace, which troubled
him sorely.
Margaret Winthrop had better instincts; to her husband’s query as to
sending trimming for her doublet and gown, she answers, “_When I see
the cloth_ I will send word what trimming will serve;” and she writes
to London, insisting on “the civilest fashion now in use,” and for
Sister Downing, who is still in England, to give Tailor Smith
directions “that he may make it the better.” Mr. Smith sent scissors
and a hundred needles and the like homely gifts across seas as “tokens”
to various members of the Winthrop household, showing his friendly
intimacy with them all. For many years after America was settled we
find no evidence that women’s garments were ever made by mantua-makers.
All the bills which exist are from tailors. One of William Sweatland
for work done for Jonathan Corwin of Salem is in the library of the
American Antiquarian Society:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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