£ s. d. “Sept. 29, 1679. To plaiting a gown for Mrs. 3 6 To makeing a Childs Coat 6 To makeing a Scarlet petticoat with Silver Lace for Mrs. 9 For new makeing a plush somar for Mrs. 6 Dec. 22, 1679. For makeing a somar for your Maide 10 Mar. 10, 1679. To a yard of Callico 2 To 1 Douzen and 1/2 of silver buttons 1 6 To Thread 4 To makeing a broad cloth hatte 14 To makeing a haire Camcottcoat 9 To makeing new halfsleeves to a silk Coascett 1 March 25. To altering and fitting a paire of Stays for Mrs 1 Ap. 2, 1680, to makeing a Gowne for ye Maide 10 May 20. For removing buttons of yr coat. 6 Juli 25, 1630. For makeing two Hatts and Jacketts for your two sonnes 19 Aug. 14. To makeing a white Scarsonnett plaited Gowne for Mrs 8 To makeing a black broad cloth Coat for yourselfe 9 Sept. 3, 1868. To makeing a Silke Laced Gowne for Mrs 1 8 Oct. 7, 1860, to makeing a Young Childs Coate 4 To faceing your Owne Coat Sleeves 1 To new plaiting a petty Coat for Mrs 1 6 Nov. 7. To makeing a black broad Cloth Gowne for Mrs 18 Feb. 26, 1680-1. To Searing a Petty Coat for Mrs 6 —- —- —- Sum is, £;8 4s. 10d. ” From many bills and inventories we learn that the time of the settlement of Plymouth and Boston reached a transitional period in women’s dress as it did in men’s. Mrs. Winthrop had doublets as had Governor Winthrop, but I think her daughter wore gowns when her sons wore coats. The doublet for a woman was shaped like that of a man, and was of double thickness like a man’s. It might be sleeveless, with a row of welts or wings around the armhole; or if it had sleeves the welts, or a roll or cap, still remained. The trimming of the arm-scye was universal, both for men and women. A fuller description of the doublet than has ever before been written will be given in the chapter upon the Evolution of the Coat. The “somar” which is the samare, named also in the bill of the Salem tailor, seems to have been a Dutch garment, and was so much worn in New York that I prefer to write of it in the following chapter. We are then left with the gown; the gown which took definite shape in Elizabeth’s day. Of course no one could describe it like Stubbes. I frankly confess my inability to approach him. Read his words, so concise yet full of color and conveying detail; I protest it is wonderful.