Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
What the words “potto-foo” and “potoso-a-samare” mean I cannot
decipher. I have tried to find Dutch words allied in sound but in vain.
I believe the samare was a Dutch fashion. We rarely find samares worn
in Virginia and Maryland, but the name frequently occurs in the first
Dutch inventories in New Netherland and occasionally in the Connecticut
valley, where there were a few Dutch settlers; occasionally also in
Plymouth, whose first settlers had been for a number of years under
Dutch influences in Holland; and rarely in Salem and Boston, whose
planters also had felt Dutch influences through the settling in Essex
and Suffolk of opulent Flemish and Dutch “clothiers”—cloth-workers.
These Dutchmen had married Englishwomen, and their presence in English
homes was distinctly shown by the use then and to the present day of
Dutch words, Dutch articles of dress, furniture, and food. From these
Dutch-settled shires of Essex and Suffolk came John Winthrop and all
the so-called Bay Emigration.
I am convinced that a samare was a certain garment which I have seen in
French, Dutch, and English portraits of the day. It is a tight-fitting
jacket or waist or bodice—call it what you will; its skirt or portion
below the belt-line is four to eight inches deep, cut up in tabs or
oblong flaps, four on each side. These slits are to the belt line. It
is, to explain further, a basque, tight-fitting or with the waist laid
in plaits, and with the basque skirt cut in eight tabs. These laps or
tabs set out rather stiffly and squarely over the full-gathered
petticoats of the day.
I turn to a Dutch dictionary for a definition of the word “samare,”
though my Dutch dictionary being of the date 1735 is too recent a
publication to be of much value. In it a samare is defined simply as a
woman’s gown. Randle Holme says, rather vaguely, that it is a short
jacket for women’s wear with four side-laps, reaching to the knees. In
this rich wardrobe of the widow De Lange, twelve petticoats are
enumerated and no overdress-jacket or doublet of any kind except those
samares. Their price shows that they were not a small garment. One
“silk potoso-a-samare with lace” was worth £;3. One “tartanel samare
with tucker” was worth £;1 10s. One “black silk crape samare with
tucker” was worth £;1 10s., and three “flowered calico” samares were
worth £;2 10s. They were evidently of varying weights for summer and
winter wear, and were worn over the rich petticoat.
The bill of the Salem tailor, William Sweatland (1679), shows that he
charged 9s. for making a scarlet petticoat with silver lace; for making
a black broadcloth gown 18s.; while “new-makeing a plush somar for
Mistress.” (which was making over) was 6s.; “making a somar for your
Maide” was 10s., which was the same price he charged for making a gown
for the maid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account