Sir Richard Saltonstall wears a buff-coat, with handsome sword-belt, or trooping-belt, and rich gloves. His portrait is shown here. As we look at his fine countenance we think of Hawthorne’s words:— “What dignitary is this crossing to greet the Governor. A stately personage in velvet cloak—with ample beard and a gold band across his breast. He has the authoritative port of one who has filled the highest civic position in the first of cities. Of all men in the world, we should least expect to meet the Lord Mayor of London—as Sir Richard Saltonstall has been once and again—in a forest-bordered settlement in the western wilderness.” A fine buff-coat and a buff-coat sleeve are given in the chapter upon Armor. All the early colonial inventories of wearing-apparel contain doublets. Richard Sawyer died in 1648 in Windsor, Connecticut; he was a plain average “Goodman Citizen.” A part of his apparel was thus inventoried:— £; s. d. 1 musck-colour’d cloth doublitt &; breeches 1 1 bucks leather doublitt 12 1 calves leather doublitt 6 1 liver-colour’d doublitt &; jacket &; breeches 7 1 haire-colour’d doublitt &; jackett &; breeches 5 1 paire canvas drawers 1 6 1 olde coate. 1 paire old gray breeches 5 1 stuffe jackett 2 6 William Kempe of “Duxborrow,” a settler of importance, died in 1641. His wardrobe was more varied, and ample and rich. He left two buff-coats and leather doublets with silver buttons; cloth doublets, three horsemen’s coats, “frize jerkines,” three cassocks, two cloaks. Of course we turn to Stubbes to see what he can say for or against doublets. His outcry here is against their size; and those who know the “great pease-cod-bellied doublets” of Elizabeth’s day will agree with him that they look as if a man were wholly gone to “gourmandice and gluttonie.” A Doublet. A Doublet. Stubbes has a very good list of coats and jerkins in which he gives incidentally an excellent description by which we may know a mandillion:— “Their coates and jerkins as they be diuers in colours so be they diuers in fashions; for some be made with collars, some without, some close to the body, some loose, which they call mandilians, couering the whole body down to the thigh, like bags or sacks, that were drawne ouer them, hiding the dimensions and lineaments of the body. Some are buttoned down the breast, some vnder the arme, and some down the backe, some with flaps over the brest, some without, some with great sleeves, some with small, some with none at all, some pleated and crested behind and curiously gathered and some not.”