Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Children also had doublets and this same shoulder-cap at the arm-hole;
their little doublets were made precisely like those of their parents.
Look at the childish portrait of Lady Arabella Stuart, the portrait
with the doll. Her fat little figure is squeezed in a doublet which has
turreted welts like those worn by Anne Boleyn and by Pocahontas (shown
here). Often a button was set between each square of the welt, and the
sleeve loops or points could be tied to these buttons and thus hold up
the detached undersleeves. The portrait of Sir Richard Saltonstall
vaguely shows these buttons. Nearly all these garments-jerkins,
jackets, doublets, buff-coats, paltocks, were sleeveless, especially
when worn as the uppermost or outer garment. Holinshed tells of
“doublets full of jagges and cuts and sleeves of sundry colours.” These
welts were “embroidered, indented, waved, furred, chisel-punched,
dagged,” as well as turreted. On one sleeve the turreted welt varied,
the middle square or turret was long, the others each two inches
shorter. Thus the sleeve-welt had a “crow-step” shape. A charming
doublet sleeve of Elizabeth’s day displayed a short hanging sleeve that
was scarce more than a hanging welt. This was edged around with crystal
balls or buttons. Other welts were scalloped, with an eyelet-hole in
each scallop, like the edge of old ladies’ flannel petticoats.
Othersome welts were a round stuffed roll. This roll also had its day
around the petticoat edge, as may be seen in the petticoat of the child
Henry Gibbes. This roll still appears on Japanese kimonos.
We are constantly finding complaints of the unsuitably ambitious attire
of laboring folk in such sentences as this:—
“The plowman, in times past content in russet, must now-a-daies have
his doublett of the fashion with wide cuts; his fine garters of
Granada, to meet his Sis on Sunday. The fair one in russet frock and
mockaldo sleeves now sells a cow against Easter to buy her silken
gear.”
Velvet jerkins and damask doublets were for men of dignity and estate.
Governor Winthrop had two tufted velvet jerkins.
Jerkins and doublets varied much in shape and detail:—
“These doublets were this day short-waisted, anon, long-bellied;
by-and-by-after great-buttoned, straight-after plain-laced, or else
your buttons as strange for smallness as were before for bigness.”
An Embroidered Jerkin. An Embroidered Jerkin.
In Charles II’s time at the May-pole dances still appear the old,
welted doublets. Jack may have worn Cicily’s doublet, and Peg may have
borrowed Will’s for all the difference that can be seen. The man’s
doublet did not ever have long, hanging sleeves, however, in the
seventeenth century, while women wore such sleeves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account