Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo, Volume 2Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo, Volume 2
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Congo River -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Africa, West
I was delighted with the country, a counterpart of the Usumbara
Hills in Eastern Africa, disposed upon nearly the same parallel.
The Cacimbo season corresponded with the Harmattan north of the
Line; still, grey mornings, and covered, rainless noons, so
distasteful to the Expedition, which complained that, from four
to five days together, it could not obtain an altitude. The
curious contrast in a region of evergreens was not wanting, the
varied tintage of winter on one tree, and upon another the
brightest hues of budding spring. The fair land of grass and
flowers "rough but beautiful," of shrubbery-path, and dense
mottes or copse islets, with clear fountains bubbling from the
rocks, adorned by noble glimpses of the lake-like river, and of a
blue horizon, which suggested the ocean--ever one of the most
attractive points in an African landscape,--was easily invested
by the eye of fancy with gold and emerald and steely azure from
above, whilst the blue masses of bare mountain, thrown against a
cloudless sky, towered over the black-green sea of vegetation at
their base, like icebergs rising from the bosom of the Atlantic.
As in the Brazilian Rio de São Francisco, the few miles between
the mouth and the hill-region cause a radical change of climate.
Here the suns are never too hot, nor are the moons too cold; the
nights fall soft and misty, the mornings bring the blessing of
freshness; and I was never weary of enjoying the effects of dying
and reviving day. The most delicate sharpness and purity of
outline took the place of meridian reek and blur; trees, rocks,
and chalets were picked out with an utter disregard to the
perspective of distance, and the lowest sounds were distinctly
heard in the hard, clear atmosphere. The damp and fetid
vegetation of the Coast wholly disappeared. By the benefit of
purest air and water, with long walks and abundant palm wine from
the trees hung with calabashes, the traces of "Nanny Po" soon
vanished; appetite and sleep returned, nightly cramps were things
unknown, and a healthy glow overspread the clammy, corpse-like
skin. When the Lower Congo shall become the emporium of lawful
trade, the white face will find a sanatorium in these portals of
the Sierra del Crystal,--the vine will flourish, the soil will
produce the cereals as well as the fruits and vegetables of
Europe, and this region will become one of the "Paradises of
Africa."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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