Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo, Volume 2Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo, Volume 2
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Congo River -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Africa, West
At 6.45 A.M. on Saturday, September 12, we exchanged the fields
surrounding Banza Chinguvu for a ridge or narrow plateau trending
to the north-east and bending to the magnetic north. A few
minutes led to a rock-slope, fit only for goat-hoofs or nude-
footed natives. Winding along the hill-sides, we passed out of
the Nokki territory into that of Ntombo, the property of Mfumo
Nelongo: here we descended into a little vale or gorge bright as
verdure could make it--
"arborets and flowers
Imborder'd on each bank"
of a bubbling brook, a true naiad of the hills, which ran to the
embrace of the mighty stream; it characteristically stained its
bed with iron. On our right was a conspicuous landmark, Zululu ke
Sombe, a tall rock bearing the semblance of an elephant from the
north-east, visible from the Congo's right bank and commanding a
view of all the hills. Banza Vivi, our first destination,
perching high on the farther side of the blue depression, bore
due north. We then struck the roughest of descents, down broken
outcrops and chines of granite--no wonder that the women have
such grand legs. This led us into a dark green depression where
lay Banza Chinsavu, the abode of King Nelongo. Our course had
been three miles to the north-north-east.
Nothing can be more charming than the site, a small horseshoe
valley, formed by a Wady or Fiumara, upon whose raised left bank
stands the settlement, sheltered by palms, plantations, and wild
figs. Eastward is a slope of bare rock polished by the rain-
torrents; westward rise the grassy hills variegated with bush and
boulder. We next crossed a rocky divide to the north and found a
second basin also fertilized by its own stream; here the cactus
and aloes, the vegetation of the desert, contrasted with half-a-
dozen shades of green, the banana, the sycamore, the egg-plant,
the sweet potato, the wild pepper, and the grass, whose colours
were paling, but not so rapidly as in the lower lands.
We dismounted in state from our tipoias at the verandah of an
empty house, where a chair had been placed; and we prepared for
the usual delay and display. The guides will not leave these
villages unvisited lest a "war" result; all the chiefs are
cousins and one must not monopolize the plunder. A great man
takes an hour to dress, and Nelongo was evidently soothing the
toils of the toilette with a musical bellows called an accordeon.
He sent us some poor, well-watered Msámbá (palm toddy), and
presently he appeared, a fat, good-natured man, as usual,
ridiculously habited. He took the first opportunity of curtly
saying in better Portuguese than usual, "There is no more march
to-day!" This was rather too much for a somewhat testy traveller,
when he changed his tone, begged me not to embroil him with a
powerful neighbour, and promised that we should set out that
evening. He at once sent for provisions, fowls, and a small
river-fish, sugar-cane, and a fine bunch of S. Thomé bananas.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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