Dana, Richard Henry, 1815-1882; Sailors; Seafaring life; Voyages and travels
The next morning we found ourselves at anchor in the Bay of San Pedro.
Here was this hated, this thoroughly detested spot. Although we lay
near, I could scarce recognize the hill up which we rolled and dragged
and pushed and carried our heavy loads, and down which we pitched the
hides, to carry them barefooted over the rocks to the floating
long-boat. It was no longer the landing-place. One had been made at
the head of the creek, and boats discharged and took off cargoes from a
mole or wharf, in a quiet place, safe from southeasters. A tug ran to
take off passengers from the steamer to the wharf,--for the trade of
Los Angeles is sufficient to support such a vessel. I got the captain
to land me privately, in a small boat, at the old place by the hill. I
dismissed the boat, and, alone, found my way to the high ground. I say
found my way, for neglect and weather had left but few traces of the
steep road the hide-vessels had built to the top. The cliff off which
we used to throw the hides, and where I spent nights watching them, was
more easily found. The population was doubled, that is to say, there
were two houses, instead of one, on the hill. I stood on the brow and
looked out toward the offing, the Santa Catalina Island, and, nearer,
the melancholy Dead Man's Island, with its painful tradition, and
recalled the gloomy days that followed the flogging, and fancied the
Pilgrim at anchor in the offing. But the tug is going toward our
steamer, and I must awake and be off. I walked along the shore to the
new landing-place, where were two or three store-houses and other
buildings, forming a small depot; and a stage-coach, I found, went
daily between this place and the Pueblo. I got a seat on the top of
the coach, to which were tackled six little less than wild California
horses. Each horse had a man at his head, and when the driver had got
his reins in hand he gave the word, all the horses were let go at once,
and away they went on a spring, tearing over the ground, the driver
only keeping them from going the wrong way, for they had a wide, level
pampa to run over the whole thirty miles to the Pueblo. This plain is
almost treeless, with no grass, at least none now in the drought of
mid-summer, and is filled with squirrel-holes, and alive with
squirrels. As we changed horses twice, we did not slacken our speed
until we turned into the streets of the Pueblo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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