Dana, Richard Henry, 1815-1882; Sailors; Seafaring life; Voyages and travels
The next Sunday was Easter, and as there had been no liberty at
San Pedro, it was our turn to go ashore and misspend another
Sunday. Soon after breakfast, a large boat, filled with men in
blue jackets, scarlet caps, and various-colored under-clothes,
bound ashore on liberty, left the Italian ship, and passed under
our stern, the men singing beautiful Italian boat-songs all the
way, in fine, full chorus. Among the songs I recognized the
favorite, ``O Pescator dell' onda.'' It brought back to my mind
piano-fortes, drawing-rooms, young ladies singing, and a thousand
other things which as little befitted me, in my situation, to be
thinking upon. Supposing that the whole day would be too long a
time to spend ashore, as there was no place to which we could take
a ride, we remained quietly on board until after dinner. We were
then pulled ashore in the stern of the boat,-- for it is a point
with liberty-men to be pulled off and back as passengers by their
shipmates,-- and, with orders to be on the beach at sundown, we
took our way for the town. There, everything wore the appearance
of a holiday. The people were dressed in their best; the men
riding about among the houses, and the women sitting on carpets
before the doors. Under the piazza of a pulpería two men were
seated, decked out with knots of ribbons and bouquets, and playing
the violin and the Spanish guitar. These are the only instruments,
with the exception of the drums and trumpets at Monterey, that I
ever heard in California; and I suspect they play upon no others,
for at a great fandango at which I was afterwards present, and
where they mustered all the music they could find, there were
three violins and two guitars, and no other instruments. As it was
now too near the middle of the day to see any dancing, and hearing
that a bull was expected down from the country, to be baited in
the presidio square, in the course of an hour or two, we took a
stroll among the houses. Inquiring for an American who, we had
been told, had married in the place, and kept a shop, we were
directed to a long, low building, at the end of which was a door,
with a sign over it, in Spanish. Entering the shop, we found no
one in it, and the whole had an empty, deserted air. In a few
minutes the man made his appearance, and apologized for having
nothing to entertain us with, saying that he had had a fandango at
his house the night before, and the people had eaten and drunk up
everything.
``O yes!'' said I, ``Easter holidays!''
``No!'' said he, with a singular expression on his face; ``I had a
little daughter die the other day, and that's the custom of the
country.''
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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