Dana, Richard Henry, 1815-1882; Sailors; Seafaring life; Voyages and travels
Coasting along on the quiet shore of the Pacific, we came to
anchor in twenty fathoms' water, almost out at sea, as it were,
and directly abreast of a steep hill which overhung the water, and
was twice as high as our royal-mast-head. We had heard much of
this place from the Lagoda's crew, who said it was the worst place
in California. The shore is rocky, and directly exposed to the
southeast, so that vessels are obliged to slip and run for their
lives on the first sign of a gale; and late as it was in the
season, we got up our slip-rope and gear, though we meant to stay
only twenty-four hours. We pulled the agent ashore, and were
ordered to wait for him, while he took a circuitous way round the
hill to the Mission, which was hidden behind it. We were glad of
the opportunity to examine this singular place, and hauling the
boat up, and making her well fast, took different directions up
and down the beach, to explore it.
San Juan is the only romantic spot on the coast. The country here
for several miles is high table-land, running boldly to the shore,
and breaking off in a steep cliff, at the foot of which the waters
of the Pacific are constantly dashing. For several miles the water
washes the very base of the hill, or breaks upon ledges and
fragments of rocks which run out into the sea. Just where we
landed was a small cove, or bight, which gave us, at high tide, a
few square feet of sand-beach between the sea and the bottom of
the hill. This was the only landing-place. Directly before us rose
the perpendicular height of four or five hundred feet. How we were
to get hides down, or goods up, upon the table-land on which the
Mission was situated, was more than we could tell. The agent had
taken a long circuit, and yet had frequently to jump over breaks,
and climb steep places, in the ascent. No animal but a man or a
monkey could get up it. However, that was not our lookout; and,
knowing that the agent would be gone an hour or more, we strolled
about, picking up shells, and following the sea where it tumbled
in, roaring and spouting, among the crevices of the great rocks.
What a sight, thought I, must this be in a southeaster! The rocks
were as large as those of Nahant or Newport, but, to my eye, more
grand and broken. Beside, there was a grandeur in everything
around, which gave a solemnity to the scene, a silence and
solitariness which affected every part! Not a human being but
ourselves for miles, and no sound heard but the pulsations of the
great Pacific! and the great steep hill rising like a wall, and
cutting us off from all the world, but the ``world of waters'' !
I separated myself from the rest, and sat down on a rock, just
where the sea ran in and formed a fine spouting horn. Compared
with the plain, dull sand-beach of the rest of the coast, this
grandeur was as refreshing as a great rock in a weary land. It was
almost the first time that I had been positively alone-- free from
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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