I went up the Columbia River to the Dalles the other day. At the Dalles
was a camp for the night of about five hundred Chinamen, being
transferred by the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company from work
higher up the river to some of the heavy rock-cutting and tunneling
between the Dalles and the Lower Cascades. I stood and watched them at
their suppers. Divided into messes of twelve or fifteen each, they had
supplied themselves with beef in the town. Holes were dug in the
ground, sticks lighted in them, and large pans set on to boil, and,
with plenty of salt and pepper, a savory smell soon arose. Large pans
of rice were boiling by the side, and before long each man's portion
was ladled out into a real China basin, which he held in one hand close
to his mouth, while the chop-sticks moved at a terrible rate in the
fingers of the other hand. Such uncouth figures!--bronzed in tint,
short and heavy in form, clad in thick blanket-coats, with knee-boots;
turbans round most heads made of heavy scarlet woolen comforters, and a
few old hats among the crowd; and a constant gabble of voices, nearly
deafening in the aggregate. Their little tents were pitched on the
river-bank close at hand, and a huge pile of their unmistakable baggage
lay heaped, with their shovels and axes, on the deck of the great scow
hard by. The town was full of them, buying or bargaining in every
store. I marked a group of four who wanted a pair of strong scissors.
They were asked fifty cents in a store. They examined the scissors and
tried to cheapen them in vain, and then left. They tried four stores in
turn, but found no better article, and the same price; then returned to
their first love, and strove hard for a reduction in vain. Again they
went the round; again they came back: on the fourth visit the patience
of the Jewish gentleman behind the counter gave way, and he told them
to take it or leave it, they should not see the scissors again. Most
unwillingly, and after a vast amount of breathing on the blades to see
how quickly the vapor disappeared, the half-dollar came forth and the
scissors changed owners. They are the closest buyers in the world. The
next morning by seven o'clock the tents were struck, the Chinamen on
board the steamer, and in the afternoon we passed them hard at work,
spread in a long line on the face of a terrible rock, which looked as
if five thousand Chinamen might work at it in vain for a year to make a
fit passage for the train.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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