Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
While the crew was loading the coprah and landing a quantity of goods,
the host started his beloved gramophone for the general benefit, and a
fearful hash of music drifted out into the waving palms. Presently some
one announces that the cargo is all aboard, whereupon the supercargo
puts down his paper and remarks that they are in a hurry. A famous
soprano's wonderful high C is ruthlessly broken off short, and we
all run to the beach and jump on the backs of boys, who carry us
dry-shod to the boat. We are rowed to the steamer, and presently
descend to the storeroom, which smells of calico, soap, tobacco and
cheese. Anything may be bought here, from a collar-button to a tin
of meat, from perfumery to a shirt, anything,--and sometimes even
the very thing one wants. We provide for the necessities of life for
the next month or two, hand over our mail and end our visit with a
drink. Then the whistle blows, we scramble into the boat, and while
my host waves his hat frantically and shouts "good-bye," the steamer
gradually disappears from sight. My friend has "a bad headache" from
all the excitement of the morning. I guide him carefully between the
cases and barrels the steamer has brought, and deposit him in his bunk;
then I retire to my own quarters to devour my mail.
Some days after this we went to see a "sing-sing" up north. We rowed
along the shore, and as my host was contributing a pig, we had the
animal with us. With legs and snout tightly tied, the poor beast lay
sadly in the bottom of the boat, occasionally trying to snap the feet
of the rowers. The sea and the wind were perfect, and we made good
speed; in the evening we camped on the beach. The next day was just
as fine; my host continued the journey by boat, while I preferred to
walk the short distance that remained, accompanied by the pig, whose
health did not seem equal to another sea-voyage in the blazing sun. It
was touching to see the tenderness with which the natives treated the
victim-elect, giving it the best of titbits, and urging it with the
gentlest of words to start on the walk. It was quite a valuable animal,
with good-sized tusks. After some hesitation the pig suddenly rushed
off, Sam, his keeper, behind. First it raced through the thicket,
which I did not like, so I proposed to Sam to pull the rope on the
energetic animal's leg; but Sam would not damp its splendid enthusiasm
for fear it might balk afterwards. Sam managed, however, to direct
it back into the path, but we had a most exhausting and exciting,
if interesting, walk, for the pig was constantly rushing, sniffing,
grunting and digging on all sides, so that Sam was entirely occupied
with his charge, and it was quite impossible to converse. At last
we proudly entered the village, and the beast was tied in the shade;
we separated, not to meet again till the hour of sacrifice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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