Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
Late at night, after a long walk on the warm beach sand, we reached
the village of Nogugu. Next day Mr. G., a planter, was good enough to
take me with him in his motor-boat, southward along the coast. High
mountains came close to the shore, falling in almost perpendicular
walls straight down into the sea. Deep narrow valleys led inland into
the very heart of the island. Several times, when we were passing
the openings of these valleys, a squall caught us, and rain poured
down; then, again, everything lay in bright sunshine and the coast
was picturesque indeed with its violet shadows and reddish rocks. The
only level ground to be seen was at the mouths of the valleys in the
shape of little river deltas.
The village to which we were going was on one of these deltas. Hardly
had we set foot on shore than a violent earthquake almost threw us
to the ground. The shock lasted for at least thirty seconds, then
we heard a dull rumbling as of thunder, and saw how all along the
coast immense masses of earth fell into the sea from the high cliffs,
so that the water boiled and foamed wildly. Then yellow smoke came
out of all the bays, and hung in heavy clouds over the devastated
spots, and veiled land and sea. Inland, too, we saw many bare spots,
where the earth and trees had slipped down. The shocks went on all
night, though with diminished violence, and we continually heard the
thunderous rattling of falling rocks and earth.
Next day we stopped at the village of Wus, and I persuaded a dainty
damsel (she was full-grown, but only 134.4 cm. high) to make me a
specimen of pottery. It was finished in ten minutes, without any tool
but a small, flat, bamboo splinter. Without using a potter's wheel
the lady rounded the sides of the jar very evenly, and altogether
gave it a most pleasing, almost classical shape.
When we returned south we could see what damage the earthquake had
done. All the slopes looked as if they had been scraped, and the sea
was littered with wood and bushes. We also experienced the disagreeable
sensation of an earthquake on the water. The boat suddenly began to
shake and tremble, as if a giant hand were shaking it, and at the same
time more earth fell down into the water. The shocks recurred for
several weeks, and after a while we became accustomed to them. The
vibrations seemed to slacken and to become more horizontal, so that
we had less of the feeling of being pushed upwards off our feet,
but rather that of being in an immense swing. For six weeks I was
awakened almost every night by dull, threatening thunder, followed
some seconds later by a shock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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