Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
My visit to the men's house ended, and seeing no prospects of acquiring
any more curiosities, I went to the dancing-ground, where most of the
men were assembled at a death-feast, it being the hundredth day after
the funeral of one of their friends. In the centre of the square,
near the drums, stood the chief, violently gesticulating. The crowd
did not seem pleased at my coming, and criticized me in undertones. A
terrible smell of decomposed meat filled the air; evidently they
had all partaken of a half-rotten pig, and the odour did not seem to
trouble them at all.
The chief was a tall man, bald-headed, wearing the nambas, of larger
size than those of the others, and with both arms covered with pigs'
tusks to show his rank. He looked at me angrily, came up to me, and
sat down, not without having first swept the ground with his foot,
evidently in order not to come into contact with any charm that an
enemy might have thrown there. One of the men wanted me to buy a
flute, asking just double what I was willing to give; seeing that I
did not intend to pay so much, he made me a present of the flute,
and seemed just as well pleased. Still, the others stared at me
silently and suspiciously, until I offered some tobacco to the chief,
which he accepted with a joke, whereat everybody laughed and the ice
was broken. The men forgot their reserve, and talked about me in
loud tones, looking at me as we might at a hopelessly mad person,
half pitying, half amused at his vagaries. The chief now wished to
shake hands with me, though he did not trouble to get up for the
ceremony. We smiled pleasantly at each other, and then he took me
to his house, which, according to his high rank, was surrounded by
a stone wall. He rummaged about inside for a long time, and finally
brought out a few paltry objects; I thought best to pay well for them,
telling him that as he was a "big fellow-master," I was ready to
pay extra for the honour of having a souvenir of him. This flattered
him so much that he consented to have his photograph taken; and he
posed quite cleverly, while the others walked uneasily around us,
looking at the camera as if it were likely to explode at any moment;
and as none of them dared have his picture taken, I left.
Rounding a bend of the path on my way home, I suddenly came upon a
young woman. First she looked at me in deadly fright, then, with a
terrified cry, she jumped over the fence, and burst into hysterical
laughter, while a dozen invisible women shrieked; then they all ran
away, and as I went on, I could hear that the flight had ceased and the
shrieks changed to hearty laughter. They had taken me for a kidnapper,
or feared some other harm, as was natural enough with their experience
of certain kinds of white men.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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