Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
I returned to Dip Point, and a few days later Dr. B. escorted me to
Olal, where I took up my quarters with Mr. D., a young Australian
who was trying to make a living by the coprah trade. In Olal, at
the northern point of Ambrym, the alcohol trade is particularly
flourishing, and numerous settlers along the coast earn large sums
by selling liquor. Everybody knows this, and numbers of intoxicated
natives are always to be seen, so that it is somewhat surprising that
the authorities pretend not to have sufficient proof to punish these
traders. If ever one of them is fined, the amount is so minute that
the sale of half a dozen bottles makes up for it, so that they go on
as before. I myself witnessed two cases of death in consequence of
drinking, alone and at one sitting, a bottle of pure absinthe.
The house of Mr. D. was typical of the dwellings built by the
colonists. In a circumference of about 50 metres, the bush had
been cleared, on a level spot somewhat off the shore and slightly
elevated. Here stood a simple grass hut, 3 metres wide and 6 long;
the floor was covered with gravel, and the interior divided into
a store-room and a living-room. On the roof lay a few sheets of
corrugated iron, the rain from which was collected in a tank to provide
water. A few paces off was another hut, where the coprah was smoked
and the boys slept, and on the beach was a shed for storing the coprah.
The actual work a coprah trader has to do is very small, amounting
to little besides waiting for the natives who bring the coprah or
the fresh nuts, to weigh them and sell his goods. Occasionally he
may visit a distant village by boat to buy coprah there; but there is
plenty of unoccupied time, and it is not surprising that many of the
settlers take to drink from pure boredom. Not so Mr. D., who tried
to educate the neighbouring natives, but with small success.
I did not see much of interest here, or learn anything new about
the natives, but I was able to obtain some interesting objects, and
my collection of skulls was nicely started, until some one told the
natives not to bring me any more skulls, as on the day of resurrection
the former owners would not be able to find their heads. The same
person created all sorts of difficulties when I attempted some
excavations, and at last insinuated that I was a German spy. It is
sad to see that the very people who, by virtue of their education
and position, ought to help one most, work against one, while very
often poor and plain people make sacrifices to help one along.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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