Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
I had an interesting experience here. Mr. I. and his neighbour did
not enjoy the best of reputations as regarded their treatment of
natives. One day Mr. I. took me over to N.'s place. N. was just
returning from a recruiting trip to Malekula. We saw him come
ashore, staggering and moaning; on being questioned, he told us
that he had been attacked by the natives, and his crew eaten up. He
was in a frightful state, completely broken, weeping like a child,
and cursing the savages, to whom, he said, he had never done any
wrong. His grief was so real that I began to pity the man, and
thought he had probably been paying the penalty for the misdeeds
of another recruiter. Mr. I. was just as emphatic in cursing the
bloodthirstiness of the natives, but while we were going home, he
told me that Mr. N. had kidnapped thirty-four natives at that very
place a year before, so that the behaviour of the others was quite
comprehensible. From that moment I gave up trying to form an opinion
on any occurrence of the kind without having carefully examined
the accounts of both parties. One can hardly imagine how facts are
distorted here, and what innocent airs people can put on who are really
criminals. I have heard men deplore, in the most pathetic language,
acts of cruelty to natives, who themselves had killed natives in cold
blood for the sake of a few pounds. It requires long and intimate
acquaintance with the people to see at all clearly in these matters,
and for a Resident it is quite impossible not to be deceived unless
he has been on the spot for a year at least.
While waiting at Dip Point for an opportunity to cross to Pentecoste,
I saw the volcano in full activity, and one day it rained ashes,
so that the whole country was black as if strewn with soot, and the
eruptions shook the house till the windows rattled. I made a second
ascent of the mountain, but had such bad weather that I saw nothing
at all. We came back, black as chimney-sweeps from the volcanic
dust we had brushed off the bushes. I heard later that the extinct
eastern crater had unexpectedly broken out again, and that several
lava streams were flowing towards the coast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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