Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
Having traversed the western part of the island, I sailed to
Loloway, near the eastern point, one of the loveliest spots in the
archipelago. Lofty cliffs flank two sides of a round bay; at the
entrance a barrier-reef breaks the swell, which glides in a soft
undulation over the quiet water, splashing up on the sandy beach. All
around is the forest, hanging in shadowy bowers over the water,
and hardly a breeze is astir. The white whale-boat of the Anglican
missionary floats motionless on the green mirror; sometimes a fish
leaps up, or a pigeon calls from the woods. In the curve of the
bay the shore rises in two terraces; on the lower lies the Anglican
missionary's house, just opposite the entrance. In the evening the sun
sets between the cliffs, and pours a stream of the purest gold through
the narrow gap. It is a pity this fairy spot is so rarely inhabited;
Melanesian missionaries are not often at home, being constantly on
the road, or at work in the native villages. Mr. G., too, was on the
point of departure, and agreed to take me with him on his trip.
In his alarmingly leaky boat we sailed westward, two boys baling all
the time. We ran into a small anchorage, pulled the boat ashore, and
marched off inland. The people I found here were similar to those in
the west, except that they had developed certain arts to a greater
degree of perfection, particularly mat-braiding and tattooing. The
braiding is done by a method very similar to that in vogue on
Pentecoste. The tattooing is mostly done by women and on women;
but the men, especially the high castes, often have a beautifully
designed sicca leaf running from the chest towards one shoulder,
which probably has some religious significance. The women often have
their whole body, arms and legs, covered with tattooing, as if with
fine lace. The operation is done bit by bit, some one part being
treated every few days. The colour used is the rosin of a nut-tree
precipitated on a cool stone and mixed with the juice of a plant;
the pattern is drawn on the skin with a stick, and then traced with
the tattooing-needle. This consists of three orange thorns, tied
at right angles to a stick. The needles are guided along the design
with the left hand, while the right keeps striking the handle softly
with a light stick, to drive the needles into the skin. This is kept
up until a distinct outline is produced; the operation is not very
painful. The skin is then washed and rubbed with a certain juice,
which evidently acts as a disinfectant; at least I never saw any
inflammation consequent on tattooing. During the next few days some
of the dye works out and falls off with the dry crust that forms on
the wound, leaving the tattooing a little paler. The patterns are
rather complicated, and at the present day there are no recognizable
representations of real objects; yet there seems no doubt that at one
time all the designs represented some real thing. They are carefully
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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