Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
The next steamer took me to the Banks Islands, and I went ashore at
Port Patterson on Venua Lava. Here were the headquarters of a rubber
planting company; but the rubber trees had not grown well, and the
company had started cocoa-nuts. I had met Mr. Ch., the director,
before, and he took me in. The company owned a motor-launch,
which cruised all through the Banks Islands, visiting the different
plantations; this gave me a good opportunity to see nearly all the
islands. The sea is much more dangerous here than in the New Hebrides,
being open everywhere; and the strong currents cause heavy tide rips
at the points of the jagged coasts.
An excursion to Gaua was a failure, owing to bad weather. After
having shivered in a wet hut for four days, we returned to Port
Patterson only just in time; for in the evening the barometer fell,
a bad sign at that season, and the wind set in afresh. The launch was
anchored in a sheltered corner of the bay, near an old yacht and a
schooner belonging to Mr. W., a planter on a neighbouring islet. All
the signs pointed to a coming cyclone, and suddenly it shot from the
mountains, furrowed the sea, and ruled supreme for two days. From
the director's house I watched the whirling squalls gliding over
the water, lifting great lumps of spray, that shot like snow over
the surface and disappeared in the misty distance. Rain rattled in
showers on the roof; everywhere was a hissing, rushing, thundering;
the surf broke in violent, irregular shocks like the trampling of an
excited horse; the wind roared in the forest till the strongest trees
trembled and the palms bent over with inverted crowns. In a moment
the creeks swelled to torrents, and in every gully there ran rivers,
which collected to a deep lake in the plain. In the house the rain
penetrated everywhere, leaked through the roof, dripped on the beds,
and made puddles on the floor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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