Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
The people of Meralava live on taro, which they grow in terraced
fields, the water being obtained from holes in the rocks, and on
cocoa-nuts, of which the island yields a fair supply.
The following day we started for Ureparapara, also a volcanic island,
with an enormous crater, one side of which has fallen in; because,
as the natives say, a great fish knocked against it. The sea has
penetrated into the interior of the crater, forming a lovely bay, so
that ships now lie at anchor where formerly the lava boiled and roared.
In consequence of the frequent intercourse with whites, the population
is scanty. There is hardly a level patch, except the small strip at
the base of the slope and the great reef outside. Here, too, we had
difficulty in landing, but in the evening we found an ideal anchorage
inside the bay. The water was scarcely ruffled, and little wavelets
splashed on the shore, where mangrove thickets spread their bright
foliage. Huge trees bent over the water, protecting the straw roofs
of a little village. In the deep shade some natives were squatting
round fires, and close by some large outrigger-canoes lay on the
beach. On three sides the steep wooded slopes of the former crater's
walls rise up to a sharply dented ridge, and it all looks like a
quiet Alpine lake, so that one involuntarily listens for the sound
of cow-bells. Instead, there is the call of pigeons, and the dull
thunder of the breakers outside.
We took a holiday in this charming bay; and though the joys of
picnicking were not new to us, the roasting of some pigeons gave us a
festive sensation and a hearty appetite. The night under the bright,
starlit sky, on board the softly rocking launch, wrapped me in a
feeling of safety and coziness I had not enjoyed for a long time.
Along the steepest path imaginable I climbed next morning to the
mountain's edge. The path often led along smooth rocks, where lianas
served as ropes and roots as a foothold; and I was greatly surprised
to find many fields on top, to which the women have to climb every
day and carry the food down afterwards, which implies acrobatic feats
of no mean order.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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