Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
These same people can be so gay, childlike, kind and obliging,
tactful and generous, that one can hardly believe the accounts
one often hears of sudden outbreaks of brutal savagery, devilish
wickedness, ingratitude and falsehood, until one has experienced them
himself. The flattering and confiding child will turn suddenly and
without apparent reason into a man full of gloom and hatred. All
those repressing influences which lead the dwellers in civilized
lands to some consistency of action are lacking here, and the morals
of the natives run along other lines than ours. Faith and truth are
no virtues, constancy and perseverance do not exist. The same man who
can torture his wife to death from wanton cruelty, holding her limbs
over the fire till they are charred, etc., will be inconsolable over
the death of a son for a long time, and will wear a curl, a tooth or
a finger-joint of the dead as a valuable relic round his neck; and the
same man who is capable of preparing a murder in cold blood for days,
may, in some propitious evening hour, relate the most charming and
poetic fairy-tales. A priest whom I met knew quite a number of such
stories from a man whom he had digged alive out of the grave, where
his relatives had buried him, thinking him old enough to die. This
is not a rare occurrence; sometimes the old people themselves are
tired of life and ask to be killed.
What has preserved the old customs so well on Vao is the aversion of
the natives to plantation work. But one day, while I was there, a ship
rode at anchor off the coast, and a member of the French survey party
landed, collected all the men on the beach, and told them that unless
there were thirty men on board that evening, the whole tribe would
be driven out of the island, as the island belonged to the French
company. This was, to say the least, extremely doubtful; moreover,
it would never have been feasible to expropriate the natives in this
summary way. They were furious, but, unprotected as they were, they
had to obey, and in the evening nearly all the young men assembled
on the beach and were taken away in whale-boats, disappearing in the
mist and darkness of the night. The old men and the women remained
behind, crying loudly, so that the terrible wailing sounded sadly
over the sea. Even to the mere spectator it was a tragic moment when
the tribe was thus orphaned of its best men, and one could not help
being revolted by the whole proceeding. It was not womanish pity for
the men who were taken off to work, but regret for the consequent
disappearance of immemorial forms of tribal life. Next day the
beach was empty. Old men and women crossed over to the yam-fields,
the little children played as usual, but the gay shouts were silent,
the beautiful, brown, supple-bodied young men were gone, and I no
longer felt the joy of living which had been Vao's greatest charm. The
old men were sulky and sad, and spoke of leaving Vao for good and
settling somewhere far inland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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