Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
In Hog Harbour we spent the night and enjoyed a hearty English
breakfast with the planters, the Messrs. Th., who have a large and
beautiful plantation; then we continued our cruise. The country
had changed somewhat; mighty banks of coral formed high tablelands
that fell vertically down to the sea, and the living reef stretched
seaward under the water. These tablelands were intersected by flat
valleys, in the centre of which rose steep hills, like huge bastions
dominating the country round. The islands off the coast were covered
with thick vegetation, with white chalk cliffs gleaming through them
at intervals. A thin mist filled the valleys with violet hues, the
sea was bright and a fresh breeze carried us gaily along. The aspect
of the country displayed the energies of elemental powers: nowhere can
the origin of chalk mountains be more plainly seen than here, where we
have the process before us in all its stages, from the living reef,
shining purple through the sea, to the sandy beach strewn with bits
of coral, to the high table mountain. We anchored at a headland near
a small river, and were cordially welcomed by the missionary's dogs,
cats, pigs and native teacher. There was also a young girl whom the
father had once dug out of her grave, where a hard-hearted mother
had buried her.
I had an extremely interesting time at Port Olry. The population
here is somewhat different from that of the rest of Santo: very
dark-skinned, tall and different in physiognomy. It may be called
typically Melanesian, while many other races show Polynesian
admixture. The race here is very strong, coarse-featured and lives
in the simplest way, without any industries, and is the primitive
population in the New Hebrides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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