Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
Having inspected the gamal, we received from the highest caste present
a gift of some yam, or taro, which we requited with some sticks of
tobacco. The length of the gamal depends on the caste of the chief
who builds it. I saw a gamal 60 metres long, and while this length
seems senseless to-day, because of the scanty population, it was
necessary in former days, when the number of a man's followers rose
with his rank. Not many years ago these houses were filled at night
with sleeping warriors, each with his weapons at hand, ready for a
fight. To-day these long, dark, deserted houses are too dismal for
the few remaining men, so that they generally build a small gamal
beside the big one.
To have killed a man, no matter in what way, is a great honour,
and gives the right to wear a special plume of white and black
feathers. Such plumes are not rare in Port Olry.
Each man has his own fire, and cooks his own food; for, as I have
said, it would mean the loss of caste to eat food cooked on the
fire of a lower caste. Women are considered unworthy to cook a man's
meal; in fact, their standing here is probably the lowest in all the
archipelago. Still, they do not lack amusement; they gather like the
men for social carousals, and are giggling and chattering all day
long. Their principal occupation is the cultivation of the fields,
but where Nature is so open-handed this is not such a task as we might
think when we see them coming home in the afternoon, panting under
an immense load of fruit, with a pile of firewood on top, a child on
their back and possibly dragging another by the hand. Port Olry is the
only place in the New Hebrides where the women carry loads on their
heads. Everywhere else they carry them on their backs in baskets of
cocoa-nut leaves. In consequence the women here are remarkable for
their erect and supple carriage.
The work in the fields consists merely of digging out the yam and
picking other fruit, and it is a sociable affair, with much talking and
laughter. There is always something to eat, such as an unripe cocoa-nut
or a banana. Serious work is not necessary except at the planting
season, when the bush has to be cleared. Then a whole clan usually
works together, the men helping quite energetically, until the fields
are fenced in and ready for planting; then they hold a feast, a big
"kai-kai," and leave the rest of the work to the women. The fences are
made to keep out the pigs, and are built in the simplest way: sticks
of the wild cotton-wood tree, which grows rankly everywhere, are stuck
into the ground at short intervals; they immediately begin to sprout,
and after a short time form a living and impenetrable hedge. But they
last much longer than is necessary, so that everywhere the fences
of old gardens bar the road and force the traveller to make endless
detours, all the more so as the natives have a way of making their
fields right across the paths whenever it suits them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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