Tyrol (Austria) -- Description and travel; Tyrol (Austria) -- History
Formerly there was some excuse for an ignorance and neglect which a
lack of easy transit, good roads, and railways to near-by points might
be held to condone. But at the present time so much has been done to
throw open this fascinating mountain district to the traveller,
rest-seeker, and artist that the excuse can no longer be urged.
Concerning the climate, scenery, people, and accommodation now offered
to travellers, much can be said in praise. Indeed, regarding all of
these, it would be difficult to say everything one might without
running the risk of being accused of partiality or exaggeration.
In this portion of Tyrol (as, indeed, may be said also of others) one
still meets with hospitality and courtesy at inns and rest-houses
which are not chiefly based upon the expectation of personal
aggrandisement or monetary reward, just as one still finds quietude
wedded to splendid scenery and beautiful prospects not yet exploited.
In the Dolomite region, though its popularity is yearly increasing,
one can yet happily meet with comfortable hotels, which are not
overrun by the type of tourist for whom a good dinner is more than
fresh air and scenery, and dress clothes and gorgeous costumes of an
evening a _sine quâ non_. In a word, we have found that the Dolomite
region is free from many of the disadvantages of Switzerland--that
most exploited of European countries, and the one in which nowadays
perhaps the least quietude and rest is to be found--and provides a
playground for the mere pedestrian as well as a most attractive region
for the exercise of the climbing instinct.
It must be admitted, however, that in the less frequented passes and
valleys one has occasionally to "rough" it in a mild kind of way, and
that one needs to be a good and enduring walker to "do" the region on
foot. But although some of the inns in the lesser known valleys are
yet somewhat primitive, the cooking is usually good, and the beds,
though the linen may be coarse, will be found almost without exception
spotlessly clean.
It may be added that French is of little use in the Dolomites, except
in the hotels at the most frequented tourist resorts, such as Toblach,
Cortina, Karer See, Bozen, etc., Italian and German being generally
spoken--the former almost everywhere in the region; the latter chiefly
in the Gader Thal, Grödener Thal, and the district north of the
Ampezzo Thal; although in scattered hamlets south of the latter, here
and there one finds peasants speaking both.
The Dolomite region is most accessible from the Venetian frontier,
Bozen, or Bruneck; and the true Dolomite district, which contains all
that is most magnificent as regards scenery and attractiveness to the
mountaineer and geological student, lies midway between the points we
have mentioned, and covers the comparatively small area of some fifty
miles by forty miles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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