[8] Dr. G. Schott, as the result of studying the form and height of
sea waves, claims that under a moderate breeze their velocity was 24.6
feet per second, or 16.8 miles per hour, which is about the speed of a
modern sailing vessel. (Some speed!) As the wind rises, the size and
speed of the waves increase. In a strong breeze their length rises to
260 feet and their speed reaches 36.0 to 36.4 feet per second. Waves
the period of which is 9 seconds, the length 400 or 425 feet, and the
speed 28 nautical miles per hour, are produced only in storms. During a
southeast storm in the southern Atlantic, Dr. Schott measured waves 690
feet long, and this was not a maximum; for in latitude 28 degrees south
and longitude 39 degrees west, he observed waves of fifteen seconds'
period, which were 1,150 feet long with a velocity of 78.7 feet per
second, or 46-1/8 nautical miles per hour. Dr. Schott does not think
that the maximum height of the waves is very great. Some observers
have estimated it at 30 or 40 feet in a wind the force of which is
represented by 11 on the Beaufort scale (the highest number of which
is 12); and Dr. Schott's maximum is 32 feet. He believes that in great
tempests waves of more than 60 feet are rare, and even those of 50
feet are exceptional. In the ordinary trade winds the height is 5 or 6
feet. The ratio of height to length is about 1:33 in a moderate wind,
1:18 in a strong wind, 1:17 in a storm; from which it follows that the
inclination of the waves is respectively about 6, 10, and 11 degrees.
The ratio to the height of the waves to the force of the wind varies
greatly.--_Scientific American._
_Note on Above by Author._--It would seem that the late Dr. Schott, if
quoted correctly, did not consider the "fetch" as an element in the
process of wave formation at sea; but his maximum waves were observed
at a point where there was plenty of sea room.
Enough sail had to be carried to give the ship ample steerage way when
the walls of rushing water passed us, for incredible as it may seem
to those who have not had the experience, the waves of the sea run at
a speed far greater than anything afloat that sails. The tidal wave,
theoretical at least, must have a speed of one thousand miles per hour
in order that the tides may follow the attraction of the moon and
girdle the earth each twenty-four hours; _some speed_ even in these
days of rapid travel. Here we have a vertical translation of motion and
not a horizontal shifting of water at that terrific speed. In the sea
waves caused by wind friction, there is also simply a translation of up
and down motion, except for the rearing crest; if the sea waves moved
bodily it would be extremely dangerous to live near the seashore and
the coasts would soon be worn away; also, ships would not dare venture
upon the ocean.
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