'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History; Kabul (Afghanistan)
In the early part of my stay in Kabul I used to go for long rides about
the country, generally unattended, for those were the days when Amir
Abdur Rahman was full of vigour, and it was deemed unwise to meddle with
one of his “Feringhees.” I found, however, that I got enough riding in
the ordinary course of my work, so after a time, I gave it up. Then I got
a bicycle, and used to ride about the country around on that; but this,
too, eventually became uninteresting when there was nothing fresh to see
and the rides had no objective, and the day’s work also was sufficient to
keep me in good health so far as exercise went. I afterwards spent most
of my time during the evening in the garden, except when there was quail
shooting to be had in the fields close by, and I also found that for two
hours before sunset numbers of blue pigeon used to fly over the garden in
twos and threes, returning to their sleeping place from the fields and
mountains, where they had been out feeding all day, and as this offered
good amusement within easy reach, I spent most of the evenings, when I
had nothing better to do, sitting in the garden waiting until one or
another came within range. They afforded good practice, for blue pigeon
fly fast, and, coming from in front and flying over one’s head, they
were more difficult to hit than birds flying past on one side or the
other. We also made a tennis court, and during the last two years were
able to play most days until winter set in. One can play tennis in Kabul
until nearly the end of December, when the snow begins to fall and stops
further play until the following April.
The house I had was one with six rooms below and six above. All the
windows faced an inner courtyard, round the other sides of which ran the
kitchen and servants’ quarters, stables, hamam, etc.; I had windows made
on the outer side of the house also, so that I could not only get a view
of the garden, but make the back rooms light enough to live in. The house
was originally the harem serai in which some of Amir Shere Ali’s wives
lived, and it is the custom in building houses intended for the use of
women to leave the outer walls without windows to ensure greater privacy.
The windows are therefore always on the side which faces the inner
courtyard. For the same reason the roofs of the houses, which are flat
and are used by the women to enjoy the air in the evening, have a high
wall round them so that they may not be seen by other men.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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