'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History; Kabul (Afghanistan)
The morning was clear and bright, and the dazzling whiteness of the snow
in the sunlight was blinding, until the eyes became a little used to it;
but the wind continued in all its severity, and while riding over the
Latabund Pass, we found it far too cold at that altitude to sit in the
saddle with comfort, for our hands and feet became so numbed and useless
that we feared frostbite, and therefore the escort and myself dismounted
and walked, in order to keep ourselves warm, and led our horses, until
about two o’clock in the afternoon, we reached the summit. Once on the
other side of the pass, we were protected from the wind, but I thought it
still too cold to ride, and so walked on the rest of the way to Barikab,
where I reached camp at six in the evening, very tired with a long day’s
walk. The pack animals, which are too heavily laden to take the short
cuts over the mountains that the riding horses follow, did not reach
camp until nine o’clock, so that it was again very late before I got my
dinner, and by the time I got it I wanted it.
Thence to Jelalabad, as each successive range of mountains brought us
still lower down it got warmer day by day, but the warmth was comparative
only, for it was still very cold when we reached Jelalabad. Here I spent
a day, having a day extra in hand in which to reach the Khyber Pass,
which is open for travellers twice a week only, and occupied myself in
looking over the city and inspecting the Amir’s palace and gardens
there. The city is a small one, and is walled round, as usual, but the
wall is broken down in places, and everything has a most dilapidated
look, and many parts are in ruins. There is no attempt to keep the
city clean, and the inhabitants of each house make their own sanitary
arrangements, which practically means none at all, as each one throws
the refuse of the house outside to lie there and rot, if not eaten up
by the dogs and crows. The water of the place stinks, and it is not at
all surprising that when cholera visits it, being brought up from India
with the caravans, it makes a long and effective stay. One wonders that
it does not wipe off the whole of the population, but the dry climate
and frequent winds, no doubt, help towards the sanitary condition of the
city, and perhaps long-continued successive visits of cholera have made
many of the people immune.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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