The heat in Madrid towards the end of August (1896) was not excessive--less than we had feared. We enjoyed, that Sunday, quite an excellent bull-fight, although the bulls themselves had been advertised as of "only one horn" apiece (_de un cuerno_). There was no sign, however, of any cornual deficiency as each magnificent animal dashed into the arena, although with binoculars one could detect a slight splintering of one horn-point, a defect which had caused the rejection of that animal from the herd-list. For these bulls were, in fact, of notable blood--that of Ybarra of Sevillian _vegas_--and none bearing that name appear in first-class _corridas_ save absolutely perfect and unblemished. The point illustrates the keen appreciation of quality in the fighting-bull, which in Spain goes without saying, yet may well deceive the casual stranger. Thus an American party who breakfasted with us (always keen to get the best, but not always knowing where to find it) despised the "Unicorns" and reserved themselves instead for the opera. We enjoyed an excellent fight with dashing bulls--two clearing the barrier and causing a fine stampede among the military, the police, and crowds of itinerant fruit-and water-sellers who occupy the _Entre-barreras_. These "Unicorns" proved really better bulls than at many of the formal _corridas_. Three young and rising matadors despatched the animals--two each. They were Galindo, Gavira, and Parrao--both the latter excellent. Gavira looked as if he might take first rank in his order, while Parrao displayed a coolness in the _lidia_ such as we had seldom before seen--even to stroking the bull's nose--while in the final scene he went in to such close quarters, "passing" the animal at half arm's-length, that the whole 10,000 in the Plaza held their breath. Parrao will become a first-flighter, unless he is caught, which certainly seems the more natural event. That evening we were hospitably entertained at the British Embassy, where our host, the Chargé d'Affaires, regretted that the short fourteen-days' Ortolan season had just that morning expired. Thus, quite unconsciously, was an ornithological fact elucidated. Next morning we were away by an early train, and after five hours' journey joined our staff, as prearranged. But here we committed the mistake of quartering in a country-town on the banks of the Tagus, instead of encamping in the open country outside. Bitterly did we regret having allowed ourselves to be thus persuaded. Long summer heats and parching drought had destroyed what primitive system of natural drainage may have existed in Talavera de la Reina and produced conditions that we revolt from describing. Oh! those foul effluvia amidst which men live, and feed, and sleep!