If the park has no history, one can find curious bits of old London
quite close to it by turning out of the west gate and asking the way to
Church Road, off the Battersea Bridge Road, and near the river. First
there is the old church of St. Mary’s, ugly enough in itself, but it was
where William Blake was married, and where Turner used to sketch the
wonderful effects on the Thames. Lovers of quaint epitaphs will find a
delicious one composed by himself to the famous Henry St. John, Lord
Bolingbroke, who “was Secretary of State under Queen Anne and in the
days of King George I. and King George II. something more and better.”
Lord Bolingbroke was a true Battersea man, for he was born there in 1678
and died in 1751. His second wife, who shares the honour of his
monument, was a niece of Madame de Maintenon. Battersea has been closely
connected with the St. John family for four hundred years, though they
sold their manor to the Spencers in 1763. A bit of it may still be seen
in the adjoining flour mills, where, I believe, it is possible to see
the wonderful ceiling and staircase, and the lovely cedar-panelled room
overlooking the river, where Pope wrote his _Essay on Man_.
KEW GARDENS
“Go down to Kew in lilac-time (it isn’t far from London).”
ALFRED NOYES.
Kew is too far afield to be called unnoticed London, but it is the most
wonderful of all the London gardens and so easy to reach that to miss it
would be a matter for perpetual regret.
Anyone can tell you the way to get there: either from Waterloo to Kew
Bridge, when you will have to walk across the bridge to get to the main
entrance of the gardens, or by the District Railway to Kew Gardens
station, or by tram from Hammersmith.
There is so much to see there that over-much direction destroys the
greatest pleasure of finding out what you like best, and everyone has
his own opinion as to what time of the year the gardens are most
beautiful. The poet loves “Kew in lilac-time,” the lover of gorgeous
colour goes down to see the regiments of tulips, massed as they are
nowhere else outside Holland. Kew in rhododendron and azalea time ought
not to be missed, but I think the loveliest sight of all is Kew in
bluebell time, when it looks as if a bit of the sky had fallen
earthwards on either side of the Queen’s Walk, and in the middle of the
wilderness you come across the deserted little ivy-clad cottage, the sea
of blue sweeping up to the very door to which no pathway now leads.
It was once the Queen’s Cottage, built by George III. for Queen
Charlotte, in the days when they led the domestic existence that Fanny
Burney described in her _Diary_; but no one now uses it and it stands
there with a mute air of resignation at its fallen fortunes, little
dreaming how much its unexpected beauty adds to the pleasure of the
discoverer of this lovely corner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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