After leaving the Chapel of the Pyx, stroll along the Norman cloister to
the left, past the Norman undercroft, where, if you have a mind to pay a
small fee to the verger in the Poets’ Corner, you can see any day in the
week the quaint effigies that used to be carried at royal funerals.
Through the dark entry you come to the Little Cloister, a part of the
old monastery, that ought only to be seen on a hot summer’s day, for in
the winter-time it is dreary and your thoughts tend to turn to the smug
ingratitude that allowed the woman Nelson loved to die in poverty,--for
she once lived in the tower built by Abbot Littlington and originally
the bell tower of the church.
Turn back through the south walk of the Great Cloister and come into the
Deanery Yard.
It is customary to write to the dean for permission to see the Jerusalem
Chamber, but, if you go without this formality and he happens to be
absent, the caretaker will show it to you and tell quite unique stories
which I will not steal his thunder by repeating.
You go through the sixteenth-century Jericho Room first, and it too is
interesting, with its linenfold deal panelling. It is the ante-room to
the Jerusalem Chamber, and is now used as a sort of vestry room for the
cathedral. In the Jerusalem Chamber, as every schoolboy knows, King
Henry IV. died in 1413. I refuse to quote Shakespeare on this occasion.
It is a fine fourteenth-century cedar-panelled room, and the light
through fragments of very ancient glass in the windows shines on early
seventeenth-century tapestries and a very old mediæval portrait of
Richard II. It is a gracious place, but when the authors of the Revised
Version of the Bible worked here in 1870, it failed to inspire them with
the same sense of the beauty of words that made their predecessors
produce the finest literature in the world.
Many famous men have lain in state in the Jerusalem Room before their
interment in the Abbey--Congreve and Addison were both honoured in this
way, and that seventeenth-century poet-diplomatist, Matthew Prior, who
was so esteemed by Louis XIV. that he sent him a bust by the great
Coysevox. With one of those piquant inconsistencies that enliven
history, Nance Oldfield, Mrs. Bracegirdle’s rival, also lay in state in
the Jerusalem Chamber before she was buried in the Abbey. Mrs.
Bracegirdle lies in front of the entrance to the Chapter House, but
Nance Oldfield was the only actress honoured by burial within the Abbey
walls.
The Jerusalem Chamber was originally the drawing-room of the Abbot of
Westminster, and in James the First’s day a banquet was given here to
the French Ambassadors who came over to arrange the marriage of Prince
Charles and the daughter of Henri IV.
ASHBURNHAM HOUSE
“If ever princess put all princes down,
For temperance, prowess, prudence, equity;
This, this was she, that, in despite of death,
Lives still admired, adored, Elizabeth!”
ANON.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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