But when I am fancy-free, and come to the British Museum, perhaps with
only an hour to spare and no very definite idea about what I want to
see, I choose one of two courses. Either I spend the entire hour in
walking briskly through the galleries and taking a sort of bird’s-eye
view of the different kinds of treasures that the museum guards, without
making an attempt at intimacy with any one of them--or I turn to the
left of the big entrance hall, pass through the Roman and Greco-Roman
rooms and spend the whole time in the western wing, because there I can
see the art of three great nations of the ancient world and the greatest
of all the museum’s treasures--the Elgin Marbles. In the galleries
surrounding them are the stupendous sculptures of Egypt and Assyria;
statues of the Egyptian kings who lived 3000 years ago; colossal bulls,
human-headed, that once guarded the gate of the palace that belonged to
the father of one Sennacherib, King of Assyria, who “came up against all
the defenced cities of Judah and took them,” and fragments from his own
great palace of Nineveh.
Théophile Gautier’s words:
Tout passe.--L’art robuste
Seul a l’étérnité:
Le buste
Survit à la cité,
come into one’s mind, for the bas-reliefs show the effect of the fire of
the Babylonians and Medes when they destroyed “Nineveh that great city”
in 609 B.C., yet they survived and the city is as dust! What a people
they must have been, the folk who built the Lycian tombs, you can see
best when you are half-way down the steps into the Mausoleum room, where
lie the tremendous fragments of one of the seven wonders of the ancient
world--the tomb that his wife and sister built for Mausolos, Prince of
Caria, in a little town in Asia Minor some 2275 years ago.
Traces of another of the seven wonders are in the Ephesus room, where
remains of the vast Temple of Artemis, “Diana of the Ephesians,” are
gathered, and this room leads to the greatest wonder of them all, the
pediment groups of statues from the Parthenon at Athens, that most of us
call _tout court_ the Elgin Marbles.
I believe that a great many people have a vague idea that Thomas Bruce,
seventh Earl of Elgin, did a little “scrounging” when he was British
ambassador to the Porte in 1801, and that our possession of these
sculptures is due to a mixture of luck and audacity.
It is really due to the common sense, artistic perception and
generosity of a statesman who at great inconvenience and a cost to
himself of £70,000, only half of which sum he later received from the
English Government, removed the treasures that were daily being
destroyed by the Turkish bombardment and that, but for his action, would
have been irretrievably lost to the world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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