The people who used to live in the fourteen quaint little brick
almshouses have been transferred to a building in the country, and the
London County Council has bought this property for their museum from the
Ironmongers’ Company, from whose seventeenth-century “Master,” Sir
Robert Geffrye, it takes its name. It is a fascinating place; like a
rather badly arranged old curiosity shop. There are old staircases--one
from Boswell’s house in Queen Street is the most beautiful--and lovely
panelled rooms and all sorts of things that demonstrate how beautiful
interior decoration was before the age of machine-made furniture.
There is a charming room from New Court, Lincoln’s Inn, and many other
interesting exhibits including a beautiful lacquered Chinese palanquin,
but what I liked best were the fragile, unbelievable wood carvings of
Grinling Gibbons.
If there were nothing else to see in the Geffrye Museum, it would be
worth while to go to look at what a master hand can do with a block of
wood. Evelyn thought Grinling Gibbons “the greatest master both of
invention and rarenesse of work that the world ever had in any age.”
I had cherished the mistaken belief that Gibbons was an Englishman for
so long that it was with regret I found that this great artist was born
in Rotterdam and only came to England in 1667 when he was twenty-four
years old.
It is many long years since I was first shown some of Grinling Gibbons’
marvellous work--so many that only the effect it had on me remains,
while the date and place have gone from me. I never willingly miss
seeing what his hand has carved, and if any reader of these pages is in
the habit of coming to London often and making friends on each trip with
another of the men of genius who have given the city its proud record, I
can tell them where they may study the wizardlike work of this master
craftsman and great artist.
The most magnificent piece of work he carved is in the choir of St.
Paul’s, but there are long festoons of flowers in St. Mary Abchurch, in
Abchurch Yard, off Abchurch Lane, a turning out of Cannon Street. In
old St. Mary Abchurch you will also find a wonderful painted dome by Sir
James Thornhill, Hogarth’s father-in-law, whose house in Dean Street,
Soho, has only lately been pulled down. St. James’s, Piccadilly, that
suave building that breathes mid-Victorian portliness, broadcloth and
self-satisfaction, has a lovely marble font carved by Grinling Gibbons,
but the cover was stolen. Later research has destroyed the widely-spread
belief that Grinling Gibbons carved the pedestal for King Charles I.’s
statue in Trafalgar Square, but over the mantelpiece in the vestry of
St. Dunstan’s-in-the-East, between Great Tower Street and Lower Thames
Street, you will find another carving.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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