There are many minor points of interest,--the queer little dogs’
cemetery near the Victoria Gate on the north side, the dell, a
sub-tropical garden near the east end of the Serpentine not far from the
fountain with the charming Artemis statue--but the most delightful way
to see the park at its very best is to go there in the early morning
carrying a picnic breakfast and take a boat at the boathouse south of
the rangers’ lodge. I have always envied the park ranger who lives in
this mansion. The first of his race was appointed by Henry VIII. at the
princely salary of sixpence a day, but when this was objected to by the
Government economy enthusiasts of that time, it was reduced to
fourpence.
The tiny stone cottages of the keepers, with the classic architecture
that makes them look so ridiculously important, are not really the
smallest houses in London. I think that honour must surely belong to the
porter’s lodge at the Fetter Lane entrance to the Record Office, unless
you count as a house No. 10, Hyde Park Place. Though it certainly has a
street door all to itself, it has only one room.
The park authority, so careless when it is a matter of eating and
drinking, is careful to provide more artistic pleasures for the Hyde
Park crowds. Bands play there on many summer evenings--the announcements
are made in the Press--and now and then the League of Arts arranges an
entertainment, when thousands of people flock to see the Morris dancing
or some old play performed with a background of green trees.
KENSINGTON GARDENS
“Sometimes a child will cross the glade.”
MATTHEW ARNOLD.
Henry James once expressed the opinion that the view from the bridge
that crosses the Serpentine where Hyde Park joins Kensington Gardens has
an “extraordinary nobleness,” and there is something indescribably
beautiful and unexpected about it. The grey buildings in the distance
look like some palace of the _fata morgana_ over the shimmering water.
I do not know if Sir James Barrie is responsible for the feeling that
you would not be surprised at anything that might happen in Kensington
Gardens. Who would be bold enough to assert that when the last child has
left the Peter Pan statue the squirrels do not come and play with their
stone brothers? Kensington Gardens are the paradise of the child and the
flower lover. There are ugly things in it, of course, like the Albert
Memorial, though everyone does not think it ugly: I was once startled at
hearing that souvenir of Victorian taste fervently admired by some
fellow bus passengers. But the Serpentine, and the Round Pond on a sunny
morning when the fleet is engaged in serious manœuvres--and the Broad
Walk: Wren’s orangery--the lovely sunk garden with its pleached walk of
lime trees with the avenue Queen Caroline planted--and above all, the
Flower Walk in the sunlit air after a shower,--if visitors to London
have time for nothing else they should carry away a memory of Kensington
Gardens.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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